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Post by tedwelser on Jul 28, 2015 16:11:42 GMT -7
I have several of the original Yaniro pinches and pockets from way back in the day (the first holds I ever bought at Rock and Snow in New Paltz back in 1994ish), still love them! Nice! They are great holds-- the pockets are generally super comfortable and pinches are solid and compact. Last summer I found an unused set of the original Yaniro pockets and pinches on Craigslist in Chicago. I asked a friend to pick them up for me. The seller was an older wealthy woman who had planned to build a home wall back in the 1990's but had decided against it. The holds had been sitting in her house since then. The were untouched. The holds were still sticky and had that distinctive sweet smell of the early Yaniro holds. I set a tough 30 foot traverse with most of them. The Yaniro traverse is my daughter Anna's favorite project. At one point she does an awesome match on one of the 2 finger pockets by gaston/underclinging with the left to get the right in the bottom of the pocket. |
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bill
New Member
Eating Phase
Posts: 18 
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Post by bill on Nov 16, 2018 6:58:35 GMT -7
This fall I picked up a few Teknik sets for my 30-degree wall, the crickets, aphids, and mini methods. After climbing on them for the last month and a half, I have to say the aphids are sweet! Thin 1/2 to 1/3 pad incuts that you can bite your tips into. I'm probably getting a second set of them for my 15-degree wall soon, mostly because they are so cheap (the best part about small crimps!). I would say most of the problems I've set with these on the 30 are in the V7 - V10 range, although at this point I climb outside so infrequently that I'm not 100% sure on my grading anymore.
The mini methods are too small for me on the 30-degree wall right now and are ridiculously hard on a 15. Flat to slopey 1/3 pad crimps. I think quite a few have transitioned to feet on the 30 since they are a good size for that, with one boulder that is leagues out of my range set with the rest on the 30.
The crickets have become a big part of my PE training on the 30 since they are just a little under a full pad and take up next to 0 space on the wall. I'll probably pick up some more of these too for the 15, as right now it's mostly just mini jugs and large edges that I ARC on, so it will be nice to pepper the wall with a few smaller holds.
I remember reading somewhere on here that the dual tex crimps from e-grips were too tough on steeper walls. How hard could I expect them to be on a 30? They are twice as expensive as the small edges I just bought and I'm wondering if they are worth it.
Also, does anyone have experience with good, relatively positive slopers for a 30 degree wall? After discovering how good Teknik is, I've been thinking about getting some of their curled slopers as they seem to fit the bill, but would love any other recommendations. I generally avoid buying slopers because they are usually so much more expensive, but in the interest of avoiding severe arthritic longterm damage, I should probably do something other than just crimp during my sessions.
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Post by erick on Nov 16, 2018 10:49:15 GMT -7
What are you all liking for pocket holds?
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andy
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by andy on Dec 7, 2018 7:36:37 GMT -7
Well, I like training on pockets quite a bit. Unfortunately, for steeper terrain, it seems like a lot of the bigger companies like to make pocket jugs for all the party-trick-type climbs. But there are a few sets out there that stand out to me. For what its worth the I don't like the Teknik pockets very much, even though they seem popular.
And these are comfortable as well, similar to the Yaniro pockets, which Atomic makes a decent version of.
These Decoy holds are newer to me, and they remind me of the older limestone pockets from e-grips. They have smoother texture inside, which I like better. |
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Post by Lundy on Dec 7, 2018 20:57:38 GMT -7
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