Bridging the gap in Rifle from Spring to Fall

[simtime]

Hey Guys

I've been climbing for about 16 years, but just recently (1 year) started using a more structure training schedule as shown in your book. I love it!!

I have been throwing this question around in my head for a while and cant come up with a satisfying answer myself.

I live in Glenwood Springs and climb in Rifle almost exclusively throughout the spring(when its dry), summer, and fall. I do a majority of my hard, sufferefest training in the deep depths of winter up here. This year I have been working on Sometimes Always for the past couple of weeks; this past session ended with some great linkage that came way before I thought it would. Dilemma being, in about 2 weeks my extended( 6 week) performance period will come to an end. I have no problem taking 7-10 days to health mid- summer here, but I am not sure if I should restart a full S, P, PE cycle and neglect the primary project goal that was going so well and allow my endurance to lapse. I was a boulderer for many years before sport climbing, so power and finger strength aren't necessarily some of my weaker aspects. It seems it takes me the longest to regain my PE and overall fitness.

Another option that seemed to make sense to me was a short (3 week)power reboot with limit bouldering and some campus work, then back on PE training for 3 weeks, then performance.

My experience in Rifle seems to be even though conditions aren't prime in the summer, one can still send a lot of rock climbs, so it's hard for me to hang it up to work strictly on S/P. What is the smartest overall plan for bridging the gap between spring and fall, while maintaining climbing days in Rifle?

Thanks for your ideas!

[MarkAnderson]

That's a great question. Generally speaking I wouldn't end a Performance Phase simply because the calendar says so. If I was still climbing well and making progress in two weeks, I would probably keep going until I felt my fitness was significantly declining. Of course if you do that, it could potentially cost you some or all of your fall season. That's the sort of thing that keeps me up at night.

Anyway, I would probably extend the current season as long as I could (based on fitness and fall scheduling), then try to do a compressed cycle to get back at it as soon as possible. Something along the lines of your power re-boot. I would probably take a minimal Rest Phase (less 3-7 days), then go straight into Strength followed by about 1 week of Power + PE, then I would get back on the project (continuing to train Power + PE on indoor climbing days, ideally one day per week). You could do something similar but sub training activities based on your goals/strengths/weaknesses.

...that's all for now, heading up to Indy Pass!

[simtime]

Mark,

Thanks for the insight, I was hoping you were going to say continue on. Im loving utilizing set periods for different training focuses, so I was quite torn when it came time to switch. Lots of back and forth in my own head. Progress is still on going, but I can detect a slight downturn in power up there. The project has till late July to tap out, if not we'll go back to the Loft for a compressed cycle to prepare for what should be a great Fall!

How was the pass? What are you playing on up there? Wanna get on some granite boulders sometime?

Simon

[MarkAnderson]

The Pass was awesome!  Way over-looked area that deserves more attention (but don't tell anyone . I did the FFA of an open project at Outrageous Overhangs (sent it yesterday).

Do you live in that area?  I'd love to get out there for some roped climbing but I don't see myself bouldering on the Pass, it's all way too high for me!