Post by smreddy on Jun 14, 2015 12:40:14 GMT -7
Hi folks -
First off - thanks for writing the book! It's been really inspiring and makes me hopeful that I can push my climbing up a notch. I'm definitely excited to take a more systemic approach to climbing, but am running into three challenges with designing and implementing a training program.
Number 1 - I work as an RN on night shift (7pm - 7am, 3x/week). And, I am one of the few folks out there who doesn't tolerate the sleep schedule very well, and so it's pretty challenging to get to the gym and not feel exhausted. The way this shakes down is that I have two full days per week where I feel energetic and psyched, and one to two days where I'm pooped but can still drag myself to the gym. Any ideas on how to train with this schedule? I guess my worry is that training while I'm low on sleep isn't effective training...any thoughts on that? Or how to best use the time I have when I am not a dazed zombie?
Number 2 - The gyms in my town. Oh, it is a sore subject where I live! We have two tiny bouldering gyms - they both have campus boards and I have a hang board at home with a pulley set up. But otherwise, the gyms aren't really catered to climbers - think birthday parties. What I'm having a hard time with is figuring out how to get through the ARCing phase. I know I can traverse, but between tiny gym and crowds it's hard to get more than five to ten consecutive minutes on the wall. I try to get to the gym during off hours, but seeing as my sleep schedule has me snoozing during mid-day for a good chunk of the week...that's a bit tricky.
Number 3 - Outdoor climbing. So, I live about five hours from the New and the Red - awesome! There is climbing near where I live, but I've sent most of the routes within my ability, and stepping up my game means getting on more run out terrain (which I'm not comfortable with). Should I repeat routes I've done before on outdoor mileage days? Will that get me what I need training wise? I can get to the New/Red or Obed about once or twice a month for a long weekend, but any thoughts on how to use those total days off when I'm awake and functioning?
I realize this is kind of rambling, and hope I don't come across as complaining. But I'd love any advice or experiences of making training work with what I've got going on - I'm hoping for a two week trip to the Red in late October, and I'm ready to get started, just need to figure out how! Thanks in advance!
First off - thanks for writing the book! It's been really inspiring and makes me hopeful that I can push my climbing up a notch. I'm definitely excited to take a more systemic approach to climbing, but am running into three challenges with designing and implementing a training program.
Number 1 - I work as an RN on night shift (7pm - 7am, 3x/week). And, I am one of the few folks out there who doesn't tolerate the sleep schedule very well, and so it's pretty challenging to get to the gym and not feel exhausted. The way this shakes down is that I have two full days per week where I feel energetic and psyched, and one to two days where I'm pooped but can still drag myself to the gym. Any ideas on how to train with this schedule? I guess my worry is that training while I'm low on sleep isn't effective training...any thoughts on that? Or how to best use the time I have when I am not a dazed zombie?
Number 2 - The gyms in my town. Oh, it is a sore subject where I live! We have two tiny bouldering gyms - they both have campus boards and I have a hang board at home with a pulley set up. But otherwise, the gyms aren't really catered to climbers - think birthday parties. What I'm having a hard time with is figuring out how to get through the ARCing phase. I know I can traverse, but between tiny gym and crowds it's hard to get more than five to ten consecutive minutes on the wall. I try to get to the gym during off hours, but seeing as my sleep schedule has me snoozing during mid-day for a good chunk of the week...that's a bit tricky.
Number 3 - Outdoor climbing. So, I live about five hours from the New and the Red - awesome! There is climbing near where I live, but I've sent most of the routes within my ability, and stepping up my game means getting on more run out terrain (which I'm not comfortable with). Should I repeat routes I've done before on outdoor mileage days? Will that get me what I need training wise? I can get to the New/Red or Obed about once or twice a month for a long weekend, but any thoughts on how to use those total days off when I'm awake and functioning?
I realize this is kind of rambling, and hope I don't come across as complaining. But I'd love any advice or experiences of making training work with what I've got going on - I'm hoping for a two week trip to the Red in late October, and I'm ready to get started, just need to figure out how! Thanks in advance!
