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Post by robertorama on Jun 9, 2015 13:00:09 GMT -7
Hey guys,
do you think it´s enough to always climb 1 day on, 2 days off?
I know that for example in the HB Phase this is the recommended training frequency.
But do you think this would work, if I would take this approach on every Phase except the ARC stuff?
I mean would this be enough?
I´m asking because my tendons really tend to get injured if I climb for example every other day.
I´m climbing for about 4 years now and right now I´m at the 5.12b/c Level.
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Post by rob on Jun 9, 2015 14:16:12 GMT -7
Hey guys, do you think it´s enough to always climb 1 day on, 2 days off? That's pretty much my schedule throughout the season apart from ARC and ive made continuous improvement from season to season. In my view long-term improvement is the goal, not short intense improvement and accompanying injuries. So I never have an issue with extra rest days here and there. They're even more important if you're injury prone. Just as long as when you do train its smart and systematic! |
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Post by robertorama on Jun 9, 2015 14:51:09 GMT -7
That´s nice to hear.
What grade are you climbing at?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 9, 2015 15:05:11 GMT -7
How old are you? Optimal rest and recovery timeframes vary greatly depending on age.
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Post by robertorama on Jun 9, 2015 15:10:58 GMT -7
I´m 29
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Post by jessebruni on Jun 9, 2015 15:26:54 GMT -7
Hmm. I'm 25, been climbing for almost 6 years, and climb around 13a or 13b. I've found 1 on 2 off is ideal for HB. For limit bouldering I'm okay with 1 on 1 off, and with campusing I do 1 on 2 off. For LBC's and 4x4's during PE phase I've been okay with 2 on 1 off. I think as I get more used to training and have a few more years under my belt I may try and see how well my body responds to reducing some of those rest times a little bit, as most people I know that have been climbing for a long time and climb at a high level are capable of doing 2 on 1 off even during high intensity phases, and the pros are even known to train 2 or 3 times per day!
As far as it being enough, I think you can do a lot during those rest days. For example, while I may need to go 1 on 1 off or 1 on 2 off in order to give my forearms and connective tissue rest, my upper body muscles tend to be able to handle more volume and I can usually go lift weights and do supplemental exercise the day after climbing. I don't think 29 is old enough yet where you're going to see super duper increased rest times being necessary, but I'd imagine you have to rest a bit more than me, just like I have to rest a bit more than the 20 year olds at my gym, and even they can't handle the intense 6 days on 1 day off schedule of the 16 year old crushers!
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Post by robertorama on Jun 9, 2015 15:57:09 GMT -7
I have to say that the general training and my ability to recovers is not the problem I think. In fact I train more days than just 1 out of 3. Right now I´m in my Power Phase and I´m doing 1 day Limit Bouldering, next day rest and on the third day I do Stuff like 1 arm negatives, weighted Pullups or Frontlevers. And I go running 2-3 days a Week.
So in fact I train 2 days on 1 day off, but I do Limit Bouldering/Campus/HB/Boulder Circuits (everthing that involves my fingers) exclusively with 2 following rest days for my fingers.If I dont I get tenosynovitis (hope this is the right word in english).
So I guess my question was if that is enough to get a good improvement in terms of pure fingers strength/ Finger Power/ Power Endurance?
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Post by jessebruni on Jun 9, 2015 16:23:57 GMT -7
At the 12b/c level definitely. As you progress into 5.13...still probably will be as long as you keep the intensity high. Once you push into 5.14 I have no clue. I bet it's still okay though as long as the intensity is high.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 9, 2015 19:38:14 GMT -7
I would do the supplemental exercises on the 2nd day instead of the 3rd. Otherwise I think your schedule is more or less ok, but only you can determine that for sure.
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Post by rob on Jun 10, 2015 0:03:28 GMT -7
That´s nice to hear. What grade are you climbing at? I'm 24 next month, have been climbing for 3 years and climb 5:12 b (c in the next week or so I'm hoping). As mentioned by Jesse, I also sometimes do SEs on 'rest' days and find this works okay, or I do injury prevention stuff (strengthening exercises for sore spots and stretching). I think, as Jesse said, its all dependent on how much your body can handle without injury and how experienced you are. Although I'm only young, I'm cautious in my approach to avoid injury, but hopefully as my body adapts I could decrease rest days here and there where appropriate to increase intensity. |
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Post by robertorama on Jun 10, 2015 3:45:33 GMT -7
Thanks a lot for your answers.
I guess i will stay with my apporach and maybe with more years of training my tendons will get used to it.
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Post by joev9 on Jun 10, 2015 6:29:01 GMT -7
I'm 46 and the 1 day on 2 day off works for hangboarding (though it drives me nuts mentally), but during power training, I go 3 days per week (usually Tues., Fri., Sun.) and during performance I will go 4 days in one week (Mon., Tues., Thurs., Sat.) if the conditions are good. For each of those "days" my sessions are 2 to 3 hours, so I never really do an all day climbing session. I've been climbing for 23 years so my tendons are pretty good, and I have been climbing 3 or 4 days a week/2 to 3 hour sessions for many years.
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