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Post by erick on Jun 5, 2015 20:31:41 GMT -7
The gym I will be doing my campus training in has a campus board with an adjustable angle. Since I can fine tune the angle, what do you think is best? In the book they suggest between 15 and 20, should I shoot the middle and go 17.5?
Eric
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Sander
Junior Member
Posts: 61 
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Post by Sander on Jun 6, 2015 0:54:55 GMT -7
I'm not a campus expert, but here are my thoughts on the matter. There's a bit of a trade off: the steeper the board, the harder it gets to latch the rungs and the easier it gets to make the campus moves. More vertical on the other hand means harder moves, easier catching. I'd say the best angle depends on the rungs and on you: make sure catching the rungs isn't too hard (slipping off is when injuries happen…) and aim for hard moves. If your goal is to train explosive power, tend towards hard moves and 'easy' catching (i.e. more vertical board). If your goal is to train contact strength, go for a steeper board.
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Post by rob on Jun 6, 2015 2:24:33 GMT -7
I agree totally with SW's comment.
The only thing ill add is that I recently build a home campus board, and although I haven't trained on it much yet, the angle is around 21/22 degrees (I was aiming for 20) to allow for greater height with my low ceiling. Anyway, from my brief experience of training with this, any distance travelled lost by increasing the angle feels very, very small - like barely noticeable (my local gym uses the same rungs and is at 15 degrees) - but god is it harder to latch those rungs. The medium rungs feel smaller than the small rungs in my gym. So to me increasing the angle is, as SW said, only really for increasing contact strength, and power would likely be better trained at a lower angle.
This also all depends on the rungs used. The more incut the easier it is to increase the angle and still latch them okay.
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Post by jonfrisby on Jun 6, 2015 5:50:07 GMT -7
I'm no physisict, but is the idea that because your body moves outward more in relation to the base hand, you lose the ability to maintain more of your weight on that hand and therefore have to exert ore force with the catching hand? or is it more a swing prevention thing? If the latter, that seems too steep
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 6, 2015 8:33:46 GMT -7
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Post by rob on Jun 7, 2015 5:59:46 GMT -7
I think the primary factor is that rungs become less "positive" as the board gets steeper. But, that also makes it harder to maintain force on the low rung. That's exactly what I've found with my campus board. Ive found Snap campus rungs are good for this as they are much more incut than Metiolus rungs. I have a large set of these and they are pretty much exactly horizontal on my steep board - good for big moves and warming up. Mark, I think once you've built your own its pretty easy to talk forever about angles/ dimensions etc and how they impact campusing. Unfortunately none of my friends and family seem to care that much... I wonder why? |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 7, 2015 19:08:24 GMT -7
Haha. Luckily we found each other  |
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Post by climber511 on Jun 8, 2015 10:18:05 GMT -7
My friends and I made our own Campus Rungs with nothing to go by except pictures off the internet . I planned to make my board angle 15 degrees so thought cutting the rung angle to the same would give me horizontal surfaces to pull on. From the pictures we had to work with - this seemed pretty close to what the manufacturers had done as well. It seems to have worked out pretty well for me - but having never actually seen a commercial one - we really don't know ? I've been making progress without injury so I'm satisfied. |
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Post by rob on Jun 8, 2015 11:10:21 GMT -7
It seems to have worked out pretty well for me - but having never actually seen a commercial one - we really don't know ? I've been making progress without injury so I'm satisfied. That's all that matters! Cant believe you've never seen a campus board though, you must live far from a gym? |
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Post by climber511 on Jun 8, 2015 11:25:13 GMT -7
Actually I live pretty darn close to the climbing gym (I run it  - but hey - I built that too. www.facebook.com/pages/Crooksville-Recreation-Center/116699951687401?fref=ts Scroll around and there are some pictures of our climbing wall here. It's in a multi purpose Recreation Center in an impoverished town of 2000 people - only open to the public Thursday evenings part of the year - it cost's $2 for adults and $1 for students - the object is to get the kids off the streets and out of trouble. My wife and I run it with another couple - totally volunteer - and have since 1998 when we started it up. But having the keys is an advantage . We got a couple grants and a few climbing friends helped out and we designed and built it ourselves. |
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Post by rob on Jun 8, 2015 13:16:55 GMT -7
the object is to get the kids off the streets and out of trouble. My wife and I run it with another couple - totally volunteer - and have since 1998 when we started it up. But having the keys is an advantage . We got a couple grants and a few climbing friends helped out and we designed and built it ourselves. That's pretty awesome climber511, wish I had something like that when I was growing up! Looks really good. |
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Post by Chris W on Jun 8, 2015 18:20:51 GMT -7
Nice! My first time "climbing" was at a wall like this. Looks like you did a very nice job building the wall.
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ericb
New Member
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Post by ericb on Oct 31, 2016 20:36:39 GMT -7
Possibly stupid question on this topic - would putting large campus rungs on a 33 degree overhang be a bad idea? Love RCTM and just built my first wall, but I don't have much space left for a campus board so I'm thinking about just plugging a set of large rungs on the right edge of the wall for the power phase. Is this worth it?
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ericb
New Member
Posts: 8
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Post by ericb on Nov 13, 2016 22:20:42 GMT -7
Thoughts on this? My wall is in a single car garage so space is limited... I did a few training cycles a a year or two ago, and campusing helped my climbing significantly. That was when I had more access to a gym though.
I may be able to build a campus board at a more normal angle with enough width for one row of rungs, and could maybe space out two sizes of rung... Or would campusing on larger rungs but a significantly steeper angle be fine for training power?
I'm asking also for injury prevention too, in case there is something wrong with campusing at that angle. I know the limitations of both options, but I'm trying to determine what the best compromise is, as max recruitment is a major weakness for me.
So I guess if I could boil this all down to one question, what is the best way to train power and max recruitment (excluding limit bouldering) without an ideal campus board setup?
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Post by daustin on Nov 13, 2016 23:37:20 GMT -7
My uneducated guess is that, at that angle, you'll be forced to use rungs so large such that campus training would primarily target large pulling muscles as opposed to your fingers.
Do you have a hangboard? If not, I'd probably mount a hangboard in that space. If/once you have a hangboard, I'd look into max hangs for recruitment. I'm about to experiment with them for my first time so I don't have personal experience, but I've read a lot of favorable testimonies, especially from those focused on bouldering and less interested in the endurance side of strength-endurance through repeaters.
If you already have a hangboard mounted elsewhere, I'd probably use the remaining space to expand the bouldering terrain and just focus on setting really hard 1-2 move limit problems to train power on.
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- but hey - I built that too. 
