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Post by Mike Anderson on Apr 13, 2014 16:44:13 GMT -7
This should stimulate some debate....
Five years ago, I would have said volcanic rhyolite, based on my opinion (at the time) that Hueco Tanks was the best bouldering in the universe, and could never be topped. The features at Hueco are amazing, and nearly unparalleled, but the rock is so hard on the skin.
Then I moved East and started climbing at places like Little Rock City, Rock Town and HP40...now I have to say Sandstone is the best. It also creates rad features, but is easy on your skin so you can climb until you're tired, not when your skin gives out.
Then there is granite....Granite blocs make for some of the most commanding lines in the bouldering world -- those that are aesthetic, striking, and singular -- where the rock yields just barely enough features to be climbable. When the features are there, it's hard to be a classic granite boulder problem. Granite is also extremely durable, so it can hold up to thousands of attempts over time (though it can get polished). Here's an area where taste comes in...granite doesn't offer plentiful features that allow extremely dense bouldering gardens like the Eastern sandstone. On those days when you want a lot of problems to choose from in a close vicinity, heavily featured rock is the best. If you're picking out a project that will motivate you through thick and thin, a commanding, singular line on sheer rock, away from the crowds, might be better.
What do you think?
PS, limestone is no good for bouldering
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 15, 2014 17:30:32 GMT -7
The Buttermilks (Granite) are far and away my favorite bouldering venue. I never really like Hueco all that much, I think because it doesn't have many "singular lines" like the Buttermilks (there are a few, routes like Babyface and See Spot Run come to mind). The Happys are very similar to Hueco, and I had the same feeling: fun climbing but not as aesthetically striking.
I also tend to like less steep/less featured problems.
Something to wonder about: Smith has the most striking single-pitch routes on the planet, but the boulders are not particular striking. Why is that?
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Post by Mike Anderson on Apr 15, 2014 20:14:36 GMT -7
Something to wonder about: Smith has the most striking single-pitch routes on the planet, but the boulders are not particular striking. Why is that? Ooh, great question! Maybe it's because the routes are so bouldery themselves, people don't feel the need to boulder, but you could make the opposite argument...why climb the routes when you could just boulder. Maybe the reason is that the rock quality tends to be poor near the ground so the boulders trend to be relatively poor quality.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 16, 2014 15:13:33 GMT -7
But is the rock quality bad because the rock is close to the ground? It seems like a quality piece of rock high up could fall to the ground and become a quality boulder. Rhetorixal questions aside, I've seen boulders at Smith with fantastic rock, but they still don't look particularly awesome.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 16, 2014 15:16:11 GMT -7
Another thought: It's tough to say that "sandstone is great for..." because there are so many different types of sandstone and the quality varies dramatically. I've seen outstanding sandstone boulders (like the Millenium Boulder in Morrison, made of Fountain Formation sandstone-the same stuff as The Flatirons in Boulder), and I've seen garbage sandstone boulders.
Perhaps the same could be said of granite, or any generic rock type.
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Post by Michael Hall on Apr 28, 2014 14:45:48 GMT -7
Stand-alone granite boulders nestled into an alpine setting, ideally with a nice flat landing in an aspen grove. Nicely overhung, transitioning to a delicate slab top-out and a bit highball.
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Post by Mike Anderson on Apr 29, 2014 11:43:56 GMT -7
I can't argue with that!
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Post by boulderdaz on May 28, 2014 3:23:38 GMT -7
Grit in the Peak District. Shreds the hands, but requires it's own style and will spit you off in an instant if you get cocky :-)
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Post by brendann on Jun 3, 2014 11:49:29 GMT -7
It's offensive that this is even a question. Fontainebleau sandstone is the greatest climbing medium on the planet. Topic closed.
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zachk
New Member
Posts: 2
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Post by zachk on Jul 12, 2014 12:02:31 GMT -7
I'm with Mike. Southeastern sandstone has won me over! Although, the metaconglomerate/metasandstone boulders in Grayson Highlands VA are pretty sweet too!
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Post by Carl0s on Dec 10, 2014 12:58:02 GMT -7
The best rock type is the type that doesn't break under extreme pulling power. Sandstone is good because it doesn't destroy your skin as much as granite, but sandstone breaks too easily.
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Post by jessebruni on Dec 10, 2014 16:26:27 GMT -7
PS, limestone is no good for bouldering It's certainly not usually ideal, but it's all we have here in Central Texas. You'll still see the occasional V12 limestone boulder problem go down around here.
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Post by Jesse W. on Dec 31, 2014 16:59:51 GMT -7
I'm with Mike. Southeastern sandstone has won me over! Although, the metaconglomerate/metasandstone boulders in Grayson Highlands VA are pretty sweet too! Also agree with this. I love Nuttall sandstone, it's got great features, good grip without being too sharp, and it's super hard (enough to be as strong as most granite) so I have a great time around Mcaffee's Knob in Roanoke, but Grayson Highlands is a close second, mostly because the thin crimps can shred your hands and cut your days a little short if you're not careful. Luckily you can always go hiking and enjoy the views and the wild ponies if that happens I haven't gotten a chance to boulder in any of the more classic granite areas, but I definitely agree that some of the most regal lines are found on granite boulders, and I can't wait to check out Magic Wood, RMNP and wherever this is (if they don't get it shut down) vimeo.com/49116780
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 31, 2014 22:24:08 GMT -7
I'm with Mike. Southeastern sandstone has won me over! Although, the metaconglomerate/metasandstone boulders in Grayson Highlands VA are pretty sweet too! ...and wherever this is (if they don't get it shut down) vimeo.com/49116780That's on Mt. Evans, about 15 miles (as the crow flies) from Rock Prodigy Training World Headquarters (aka my house).
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Post by bickill on Jan 24, 2015 8:27:45 GMT -7
If you ever visit south central PA I implore you to visit Mt Gretna and Governor Stable and experience diabase. Terrible feet, small crimps and slopers that feel like grip tape (when its cold). The climbing varies from extremely delicate to ferociously powerful...often in the same problem. The big negative is its extremely condition dependent, the colder the better. If it's over 70 you're gonna have a rough time. Its my favorite type of rock but I'm a little biased since I live here.
Something about sandstone makes me climb like 2 grades lower than on any other type of rock. No idea why.
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