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Post by sorvad on May 30, 2015 16:43:07 GMT -7
Hello! Just received the book a few day ago and I've already read a good part of it (I should be studying for exams, but can't help it). It seems very good and I like the systematic approach to training, something I've tried implementing myself before with varying luck. For the last month or so I've worked on the hangboard with virtualy the same program as the intermediate hangboard routine in the book, that is: for each hold 7 sec on 3 sec off repeated 6 times followed by rest inbetween holds. Only difference is I alternate between dead hang, 90 degree lock off and full lock off when hanging. For example 7 sec dead hang on a sloper, 3 sec rest, 7 sec 90 degree lockoff sloper, 3 sec rest, 7 sec full lockoff sloper, 3 sec rest, 7 sec deadhang sloper and so on. This is based off planetfears program: www.planetfear.com/articles/Fingerboard_Training__Beginner_1100.htmlThe argmunet for doing the hangboard training like this is that some holds are more difficult holding in a full lock than in a deadhang (slopers). As an added bonus your lockoffs are also trained (personally I got ti a single arm full lockoff after following this for 3-4 weeks) Are there any cons in form of less finger "gains" training like this or is it possibly a better way to use the hangboard? Would it be more effective to just train deadhangs on HB and lockoffs seperately? Oh and please find a retailer for the rock prodigy training center in europe (or stock up on amazon.co.uk). We are out of the crisis now aswell and ready to spend some money haha. |
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Post by rob on May 30, 2015 23:04:48 GMT -7
The issue with this approach is that often you may fail on your hangs because of your lock off strength, not your finger strength on the particular grip you chose. If this is the case, then you may have trained your lock off strength till failure, but not your fingers (the whole point of hangboarding). This also works the other way round, often you may be working your fingers to failure, but barely pushing the limits of your lock off strength, which makes it seem pretty pointless.
By training each aspect individually you will be able to have more control and ensure you train each to their limit, not one or the other.
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Post by rob on May 31, 2015 2:23:37 GMT -7
However, I suppose you could argue that the strengths to this approach are that it saves time by training multiple aspects at once, and its possibly more climbing specific. Though in terms of maximizing training benefit I would train them separately
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Post by sorvad on May 31, 2015 6:09:09 GMT -7
Thanks for the reply. I suppose you are right and when I think about it, I probably saw bigger gains in terms of lock-off-strength than finger-strength. But how about the fact that some holds are more difficult to hang on to when you are in a full lock-off rather than a deadhang? Suppose you have strong lock-off and won't see failure because of this, wouldn't training this way then be more effective and more climbing specific for training fingers? You could then later do lock-off training, to train the lock-off-strength as well.
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Post by rob on May 31, 2015 6:31:06 GMT -7
But how about the fact that some holds are more difficult to hang on to when you are in a full lock-off rather than a deadhang? Suppose you have strong lock-off and won't see failure because of this, wouldn't training this way then be more effective and more climbing specific for training fingers? You could then later do lock-off training, to train the lock-off-strength as well. I guess this could be beneficial, but I would be aiming to increase intensity by adding weight or using smaller / harder grip positions, this is more controllable and consistent from session to session. But if you had a particular route in mind with a lock off on a certain grip type, then training for specifics would likely be beneficial. But for me, lock off strength would definitely limit my finger strength gains, though this may not be the case for you. |
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Post by sorvad on May 31, 2015 6:58:03 GMT -7
Hmm I think you are right again, thanks again for answering.
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Post by rob on May 31, 2015 7:35:35 GMT -7
Not a problem. This was something I used to do before reading the RCTM - since stopping and adopting the deadhang only method I've seen much greater gains in finger strength.
I now train lock offs either with pull ups or inverted rows during my SE and have also got better at these.
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Post by jessebruni on Jun 1, 2015 8:37:58 GMT -7
+1 for those inverted rows and weighted pull-ups. Those are the only two pulling exercises that I do and in the 8 or so months I've been following this training plan I've probably doubled my lock off strength (granted it was pathetic compared to my grip strength before).
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Post by jorgemendoza on Jun 5, 2015 12:00:13 GMT -7
I have been training my lock-off strength with inverted rows, weighted and explosive pull-ups, and locking-off on a system wall, as suggested by the book.
As an experiment, at the end of my last couple HB workouts, I have used the gymnastic rings to train lock-off using the repeater + lock-off protocol (7 sec on/3 sec off @ 90 degrees).
First set looked like this (Baseline):
Gymnastic rings (off-set position: Started with Left hand leading, rested 2 minutes, and then with right hand leading)*
-7 secs @ 90 degrees (3 sec rest) x 7 reps
*Rested 2 minutes
Second set (Baseline + 5lbs):
(off-set position: Started with Left *hand leading, rested 2 minutes, and then with right hand leading) *Hand leading = Hand on the highest ring
-7 secs @ 90 degrees (3 sec rest) x 6 reps
I found this article (Last article of a set of 5 articles) from Eva Lopez about training lock-off. I think the whole series is interesting.
en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2013/05/lock-off-training-for-climbers-v-goal.html
So, what do you think about doing the repeaters + lock off? Does it make sense? Any one has done this? Has anybody tried Eva's suggested workouts?
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