RRG - Black Gold

[Lundy]

Hey all,
I'm hoping to get some good work put into Black Gold at the Red this fall, but due to family and work, wasn't able to get out there this spring to really suss out the holds and figure out exactly what to be training for.  Anyone who's been on the route and has the Rock Prodigy hangboard care to propose which grips to focus on?  Currently working the outer portion of the Small Variable Ledge in a semi-crimp grip (PIP joint at 90 degrees), the hideous micro-crimp, and IM and MR pockets (also pinches, which I know aren't applicable, but I just generally suck at them so permanently keep them in my routine).  Does this sound about right?  Should I be adding a mono?  Are the pockets as important?  I know it's generally incut crimps, but just want to make sure there are no big surprises.

Thanks for your help.

[Yes]

Ooh, Black Gold is one of my favorites! I hope its dry for you.

In my experience, it was all about power-endurance and some (hand and foot) precision on edges/slots. Some are a bit slopier than others and there is a big move or two in there.

I remember one pocket, but if memory serves, it takes 3 fingers (at least). Definitely no mono's on the route. If there was a 2 finger pocket, I cant recall it being a tough move, (maybe in the steeper beginning part?)

There are two extra tiny edges for which the little square crimp will be a good training tool for. And some bigger pulls on edges that are similar in size to the small VDR.

Good luck!

[MarkAnderson]

I would train lock offs too!

[Lundy]

Thanks.  Crimps and big lock-offs is exactly what I've been working on.  Appreciate the quick feedback!

[Elvis K]

May 31, 2015 12:34:28 GMT -7 Lundy said:

Thanks.  Crimps and big lock-offs is exactly what I've been working on.  Appreciate the quick feedback!

Did you ever end up getting on Black Gold? Curious to what you and other people think of this route.

I plan on getting on this in about April. I hope it is dry around that time. Does anyone know if that would be a safe time?

[brendann]

Black Gold is one of the single best sport climbs on this continent. I trained for 4 months for those 2 minutes on the route.
Training needs to include lots of crimping, half and closed. The only pocket is at mid-height and is three-pad sinker.
The most important aspect is power endurance (4x4ing on 40-degree V4+\V5).
You need a lot of recovery ability because the red point crux comes after a large, flat jug. ARCing on steep 11d/12a.
High steps and lock-offs are crucial to get into the slots.
I did it relatively quickly (2 tries) because it was family climb time, so you may be able to get away with slightly lower benchmarks.
April could be tough because it is a waterfall, but it rained the night before I did it in October and it was dry the next day.

[Lundy]

I didn't get to the Red until it had been raining for about 5 days, at which point Black Gold was dripping, so no love. But Brendan clearly has the beta, and a sick send!