Post by wellhung on May 22, 2015 12:10:22 GMT -7
The recent Training Beta Podcast with Alex Barrows suggests an ARC alternative targeting the aerobic capacity of fast twitch muscles, along the lines of 20 x(30s on/30s) off.
Looking for any excuse not to ARC, I tried this the other day at my usual ARC angle of 13 degrees and after at 28 degrees, and although I have no clue if this will improve my climbing in the long term, here are a few notes about it:
1) The distance I can climb in 30s in shockingly small.
2) the difficulty of the moves I can do using this protocol match up pretty well with the hard parts of my goal routes
3) It was pretty easy to adjust the intensity so that I was just at the onset of "spiraling down an anaerobic hole" at the 30 s mark. At 13 degrees I even got to use some of my worst holds... in an endurance workout!
3) 30s of rest is so long! You get back on the wall feeling near 100 %. Never got more pumped than I would in a continuous 20 minute ARC set. I was continuously breathing pretty hard though on the 28 degree set though.
4) unlike ARCing, where I am doing pretty easy moves on fairly large holds (kinda boring), this workout was actually pretty fun, since I got to do a lot of hard (for route climbing) moves. 20 minutes flew by.
Mosty posted just to share, but what do the cognoscenti think of this protocol as an addition to ARCing for developing the ability to climb harder while staying in the aerobic regime?
Looking for any excuse not to ARC, I tried this the other day at my usual ARC angle of 13 degrees and after at 28 degrees, and although I have no clue if this will improve my climbing in the long term, here are a few notes about it:
1) The distance I can climb in 30s in shockingly small.
2) the difficulty of the moves I can do using this protocol match up pretty well with the hard parts of my goal routes
3) It was pretty easy to adjust the intensity so that I was just at the onset of "spiraling down an anaerobic hole" at the 30 s mark. At 13 degrees I even got to use some of my worst holds... in an endurance workout!
3) 30s of rest is so long! You get back on the wall feeling near 100 %. Never got more pumped than I would in a continuous 20 minute ARC set. I was continuously breathing pretty hard though on the 28 degree set though.
4) unlike ARCing, where I am doing pretty easy moves on fairly large holds (kinda boring), this workout was actually pretty fun, since I got to do a lot of hard (for route climbing) moves. 20 minutes flew by.
Mosty posted just to share, but what do the cognoscenti think of this protocol as an addition to ARCing for developing the ability to climb harder while staying in the aerobic regime?
