ARC w/rack and pack for specificity

[solwertkin]

My goal for the summer is a big alpine climb with 1200 ft of 5.10 followed by a 900 ft of 5.11-5.12 and then 800 ft of mid fifth. The plan is for a bivy midway. The 2nd will climb with a pack on the majority of the 5.10 and we will haul on the 5.11 and 5.12. When not hauling the leader will carry water, shoes, extra clothes on his harness.

So, I've been thinking about ARCing with the specific gear hanging from my harness. First set leader set up: rack, draws, shoes, water clothes. 2nd set: half the rack and 2nd's pack.

Thoughts on this approach? I think the specificity will help during the attempt as the extra weight will feel more natural and in the end I want to be ARCing through those pitches with that weight on my harness. The one concern I have is that ARCing is to be done in a state where you are working on perfect technique, quiet climbing, smooth movements, light grip, etc. Will I be undermining my technique and ingraining poor form due to the extra weight?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

[MarkAnderson]

(I've never done anything like that, so I'm not speaking from experience.)

My thought is that it doesn't need to be a binary choice. I would suggest that you do some normal ARCing, and do some with your kit. If I were doing two sets I would ARC normally during the first set so you can focus on skill development while you're fresh, and practice the suck while you're tired. You may find a 50/50 split is not ideal either.

Anyway, try it, see what you think, and be open-minded about where to go from there.

[chrishorton]

I did this a couple of summers ago training for alpine in the Sierras. I didn't wear my rack or any of that but I ARC'd (mostly autobelay)with a ~30lb pack on. I definitely think it helped in that at first the weight seemed difficult and got easier as time went on. When I got up to the mountains I was able to move quicker on the approach and the route than I've ever experienced. Pretty anecdotal evidence, but I'd say go for it.