Pulley System for Campus Training

[wesp]

Hi,
I'd like to incorporate campusing into my training program but don't really have the strength to campus at my own body weight. The limiting factor seems to be big muscle group weakness (ie. lockoff strength) more than grip strength for me just getting started. Has anyone else used a pulley system to offset weight for campusing similar to the hangboard offset? I wanted to get some feedback on how well that works.

I saw this other thread, and it sounds like boulderdaz may have tried it but I figured I'd solicit some opinions on it to see if other folks have tried it too:
rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/299/feet-on-campusing

Thanks,
Wes

[joev9]

I think the pulley system would be difficult due to the dynamic moves. You wouldn't be able to have consistent weight off throughout the movement. You would get weight off during the initial pull, but then I don't think the weight and pulleys would keep up as you moved up the board (ideally quickly).

The feet on is definitely the way to go. The other thing is to campus on really big rounded rungs (I have four-inch PVC rungs covered with skateboard grip tape) that I use for warming up and working on bigger moves.

Another option is to set up footless dynos (campus moves) on a bouldering wall. Work those as part of a limit bouldering routine until you get the point where you can progress to the campus board with feet, then work to the point of eliminating the feet.

[wesp]

Thanks joev9. I appreciate the insight!

-Wes

[MarkAnderson]

Wes,

I haven't tried a pulley system for campusing myself. I had the same doubts as Joe, but I've talked to some people who have done it and they say it actually does work. The new Momentum Gym in Millcreek Utah has a Campus pulley rig. The gym was designed by Brendan Nicholson, who occasionally posts here under the name brendann.

[wesp]

Cool. Thanks. I'll give it a go and see how it works.

[tms67]

So I started to campus train for the first time about 3 months ago using homemade 2 inch wide campus rungs. That went fairly well so I figured I would try the Metolius large rungs which are 1 1/4 inch wide.

Turns out I wasn't quite ready for the Metolius large rungs yet as I struggled to do basic campus ladders. Finger strength seemed to be the issue more than pulling strength for me.

Last night I decided to try using my hangboard pulley system that was nearby to see if that might help. Sure enough with about 25 lbs of weight on the pulley system I was able to do basic campus ladders and do what felt like a really good power workout.

I do agree with the consistent weight issue that was brought up. As I went from one rung to the next I could definitely feel a certain lightness occurring between rungs. And because of the 15 degree campus board angle I have, the rope from the pulley system being in my face the whole time was a bit annoying!

On the plus side however, being new to campusing, I felt like it helped me to get a really good feel for the correct technique and also how to latch the smaller rungs properly without worrying too much about tweaking my fingers. My goal now of course is to slowly drop the weight on the pulley system until I can do unassisted campus ladders.

So overall, I'd say give it a try and see how it goes. I'd be curious to hear your feedback.

[jonfrisby]

I'd be a bit concerned that inconsistent weight could shock load the tendons - no? 

[slimshaky]

man, it sounds pretty willy-nilly to me. i'm not particularly coordinated, i would probably end up in the emergency room.

for the folks that are trying this - do you have your rope in front of you, and then re-directed to another pulley out to the side?

[tms1968]

The rope was in front of me and the pulley out to the side -- Similar to the sample photos of the Rock Prodigy Training Center.

And maybe inconsistent weight is the wrong term to use. The weight on the end of the pulley always seemed to be helping me move upward, it just felt like it helped a little more when a did the dynamic move up to the next rung....a very subtle difference though.

Put it this way, I have 5 large metolius rungs. When not using the pulley I was having a hard time getting to the 4th rung while doing a basic campus ladder. With 25lbs on the pulley I could get to the 5th rung without too much trouble. So for me, I'd probably be less worried about shocking tendons when using the pulley system than not, based on how it actually felt and based on the end result.

This is all from my unscientific 4 set experiment a couple days ago. Quite frankly I think my ideal solution right now would be if Metolius came out with 1 1/2 inch rungs!

[wesp]

For the pulleys I was thinking of just mounting an eye bolt above the top of each ladder. For whatever ladder I was currently using I would just attach my pulley with a quick link. (I use free-spinning ones from ace hardware and run 7mm climbing utility cord through them). The 2nd pulley would just be mounted to one of the roof beams about 8 feet back. I figured that may be a good way to keep cord out-of-the-face and the direction of pull in line with the direction my body is traveling. Once I build my board I'll come back and report on how it's working.

[brendann]

We put In a pulley system but found that people would rather use a foot-board instead. Our excellent carpenter made the foot-board to slide in a track so it can be moved out of the way if you don't want it. I think people would rather unscientificly use their feet than put on a harness and fiddle with weights. Generally people progress quickly enough that they only need a few sessions with feet on before they figure out the technique and can ladder on jugs.

[wesp]

Howdy- old post, but I figured I'd follow up on the thread for forum posterity:

I did not try the pulley system. I actually surprised myself and found that I was totally capable of doing the big rungs on half-moon spacing. I could even do some of the skip rung ladders. My wife can do the the matching ladders and regular ladders on half-moon spacing too. It seems that as long as you're really warmed up, even "moderate" climbers that really only redpoint 5.10s can get started on campusing with half-moon spacing.

So if you haven't started, but you've been climbing for at least a few years (tendon strength), you should give it a go because it is REALLY fun, addicting, and pretty much awesome.