Post by paulnelson on Mar 5, 2015 9:13:14 GMT -7
So, I've been doing the rockprodigy periodization thing for several years now, starting when I began climbing with Mike at the Red in 2008 or so. It's been very successful in both sport and trad climbing, although more of a challenge now that I live at the New River Gorge, and up until recently did not have access to a reliable indoor climbing gym. Training 100% outside, especially with unreliable weather, is hard!
Anyway, I've got the opportunity to go to Zion the week of April 20th, and would love to get on Moonlight Buttress then. I've never been on the route, but know that it is very sustained 5.12 crack climbing, particularly laybacks, fingers, and off-fingers. I'm just wondering what the best way to train through the next month and a half would be.
Here's where I am right now:
This winter, I took a break from hard climbing in late November due to weather, and then took a trip to Red Rocks, where I climbed mostly big, moderate routes. For all of this winter, I never sent anything harder than 5.12b/c, and did no multi-pitches harder than 5.11+. By the end of February, my trad head and base endurance were in excellent shape, finger strength was okay, but power and PE were pretty weak.
For all of February, I was living in New York, and fortunate to have access to excellent gyms. Because of time constraints, I did not do a hangboard cycle this season, but rather two weeks of campusing, and then two weeks of hard bouldering combined with some volume endurance. In the gym, I was able to progress from around v5 up to v7-8, and to do a half dozen pitches of 5.12a-12c (of all styles) back to back.
So, what would be best for the next six or seven weeks? I've got access to world-class crags out my front door (although they are all covered in snow for the next few days), as well as a small home gym (basically 45° and 35° walls). There are not a lot of pure cracks here, although in the past I've been pretty successful at building endurance on sport routes, and then applying that endurance to pure cracks.
Anyway, I've got the opportunity to go to Zion the week of April 20th, and would love to get on Moonlight Buttress then. I've never been on the route, but know that it is very sustained 5.12 crack climbing, particularly laybacks, fingers, and off-fingers. I'm just wondering what the best way to train through the next month and a half would be.
Here's where I am right now:
This winter, I took a break from hard climbing in late November due to weather, and then took a trip to Red Rocks, where I climbed mostly big, moderate routes. For all of this winter, I never sent anything harder than 5.12b/c, and did no multi-pitches harder than 5.11+. By the end of February, my trad head and base endurance were in excellent shape, finger strength was okay, but power and PE were pretty weak.
For all of February, I was living in New York, and fortunate to have access to excellent gyms. Because of time constraints, I did not do a hangboard cycle this season, but rather two weeks of campusing, and then two weeks of hard bouldering combined with some volume endurance. In the gym, I was able to progress from around v5 up to v7-8, and to do a half dozen pitches of 5.12a-12c (of all styles) back to back.
So, what would be best for the next six or seven weeks? I've got access to world-class crags out my front door (although they are all covered in snow for the next few days), as well as a small home gym (basically 45° and 35° walls). There are not a lot of pure cracks here, although in the past I've been pretty successful at building endurance on sport routes, and then applying that endurance to pure cracks.
