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Post by joev9 on Jan 19, 2015 11:06:24 GMT -7
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Post by tedwelser on Jan 19, 2015 21:48:04 GMT -7
Yeah- I ran across this and his other one on general climbing training mistakes too. Very helpful-- neat to have a doctor who is also a pretty dedicated climber as well.
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Post by joev9 on Jan 20, 2015 7:00:28 GMT -7
Yeah, Ted, I liked the discussion in the other one about strengthening tendons, ligaments and connective tissue versus strengthening muscles...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 22, 2015 9:29:08 GMT -7
This is interesting, I agree with his comments about keeping the elbows bent and shoulder and elbow joints flexed. Obviously one should never campus with a closed crimp grip, but I didn't follow the discussion about how dyno-ing forces you to crimp and so on. Virtually everyone I know initially latches a dyno with an open grip, unless consciously trying to do otherwise.
What I found myself most at odds with was his theme that "harder exercises have more injury risk" (smaller rungs, bigger moves, not using feet, flat-edged rungs). I read an article on shoulder injuries recently with a similar theme (which was essentially, "don't do shouldery moves if you don't want to get shoulder injuries"). Yes, it would be safer to sit on your couch all day and feed from an IV drip, but you would miss out on a lot of things. Harder exercises do carry a higher injury risk, buy they are also more effective. Hard routes often require movements that are not entirely ergonomic. It's convenient for a doctor to say "just don't do that", but an athlete who wants to maximize their potential will need to learn how to manage injury risk in a manner that doesn't preclude improvement. What fascinates me about coaching and training is facing a problem like that, where a move seems un-natural or unhealthy, and devising a relatively safe method of developing the strength required to do the move. Simply saying "don't do that move because it's hard" is avoiding the problem rather than solving it.
Finally, his comments about ligament and joint capsule strengthening are intriguing. I'm curious what the source of that theory is. I think it depends quite a bit on the definition of "maximum strength training". Presumably he is referring specifically to Campus training (since that is what the video is about). I'm certain (based on my own anecdotal experience) that my hangboard training does indeed increase connective tissue strength, and I believe it is likely that it improves joint capsule durability. But that's probably not what he meant by "maximum strength training".
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wesp
New Member
Just moved back to the Reno, NV area. Looking for partners interested in everything, especially trad
Posts: 19 
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Post by wesp on Mar 11, 2015 8:28:56 GMT -7
Thanks for sharing. Very informative.
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Post by climber511 on Mar 11, 2015 9:20:53 GMT -7
I have been training with weights since 1959 (yes I am old). One of the terms used to describe it can (and should) be applied to climbing training as well. "Progressive Resistance Training" should be what we are all doing. Starting out doing (or trying) one finger dynos on the small rungs is probably well "stupid" - but working up to them over time maybe not so much. It's not simply that doing hard movements is dangerous as much as doing any movements before your body is prepared is dangerous. Think slow and steady - don't rush to do a certain movement because you see some world class climber doing it.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 11, 2015 16:47:59 GMT -7
I have been training with weights since 1959 (yes I am old). So then is "511" your age?  |
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Post by climber511 on Mar 11, 2015 20:31:45 GMT -7
I have been training with weights since 1959 (yes I am old). So then is "511" your age?  Well I was 11 when I started |
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Post by climber511 on Mar 12, 2015 5:58:10 GMT -7
I have been training with weights since 1959 (yes I am old). So then is "511" your age? Actually when I first tried to sign up for an email account years ago I wanted my name but it was taken and the software suggested the 511 on the end. As I have gotten older my goal is to climb at the 5.11 grade at least one climb a year as long as I possibly can. It's a struggle sometimes but a good goal to work towards as I approach 70. Thus climber511 became my internet handle. |
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Well I was 11 when I started