Post by wcohen on Oct 16, 2014 23:34:50 GMT -7
Hey all,
So I'm a novice climber of 2.5 years looking to improve my abilities across the board. I love all forms of climbing, but as a Gunks climber multi-pitch trad is my favorite. I'm not the best or putting down particularly impressive grades yet, but I love the sport and working at it.
Just a few stats so that you guys know where I'm starting from
Hardest Outdoor sport lead: 5.10c (
Hardest Outdoor Trad lead: 5.7 (onsight)
Hardest Outdoor Boulder Problem: V3/V3+
Hardest Indoor Climb (TR) 5.11a
Hardest indoor lead (onsight): 5.10b
Haven't done much redpointing as I've never had continuous access to a gym until the past few months
Bouldering Hardest Flash V3 (Have gotten a few V4's)
Hardest Boulder Problem V4/5
So my primary goal is to improve my roped climbing and get myself into the 5.8/5.9 trad range at the Gunks.
Unto my main question, I've noticed I've had the biggest improvement in movement learning during my "Power" phase when I spend 30 mins working up through the V grades doing 4 problems/grade as prescribed. My focus is to climb the problem "perfectly" while trying to find the most efficient movement pattern for each move. If I feel I didn't succeed in that feat I'll try the problem again. I feel like I'm learning the most in the V2/V3 range during the warmup ladder.
I was wondering if it would be detrimental to make this a fairly permanent part of my training regimen until technique is no longer my limiting factor. I think the novel movement aspect does wonders for me, and it gets a ton of lower level problems that I don't find too strenuous under my belt.
I know it's recommended during the power/power endurance phases, but would there be anything wrong with doing so during the Base and strength phases as well? It may leave me a bit more tired before my hangboard workouts, but I also find that I am most ready to pull hard after progressively holding on to harder holds.
Just some thoughts,
Will
So I'm a novice climber of 2.5 years looking to improve my abilities across the board. I love all forms of climbing, but as a Gunks climber multi-pitch trad is my favorite. I'm not the best or putting down particularly impressive grades yet, but I love the sport and working at it.
Just a few stats so that you guys know where I'm starting from
Hardest Outdoor sport lead: 5.10c (
Hardest Outdoor Trad lead: 5.7 (onsight)
Hardest Outdoor Boulder Problem: V3/V3+
Hardest Indoor Climb (TR) 5.11a
Hardest indoor lead (onsight): 5.10b
Haven't done much redpointing as I've never had continuous access to a gym until the past few months
Bouldering Hardest Flash V3 (Have gotten a few V4's)
Hardest Boulder Problem V4/5
So my primary goal is to improve my roped climbing and get myself into the 5.8/5.9 trad range at the Gunks.
Unto my main question, I've noticed I've had the biggest improvement in movement learning during my "Power" phase when I spend 30 mins working up through the V grades doing 4 problems/grade as prescribed. My focus is to climb the problem "perfectly" while trying to find the most efficient movement pattern for each move. If I feel I didn't succeed in that feat I'll try the problem again. I feel like I'm learning the most in the V2/V3 range during the warmup ladder.
I was wondering if it would be detrimental to make this a fairly permanent part of my training regimen until technique is no longer my limiting factor. I think the novel movement aspect does wonders for me, and it gets a ton of lower level problems that I don't find too strenuous under my belt.
I know it's recommended during the power/power endurance phases, but would there be anything wrong with doing so during the Base and strength phases as well? It may leave me a bit more tired before my hangboard workouts, but I also find that I am most ready to pull hard after progressively holding on to harder holds.
Just some thoughts,
Will