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Post by tradmike on Dec 21, 2014 15:12:40 GMT -7
I'm currently climbing at the 5.11 level in the gym and am just about to start my first hangboard phase. Planning on starting with the beginner workout and looking forward to it.
My question is am i supposed to be going to failure on the 6th rep or to where im just about to fall off the hold on the last rep.
Have my pulley setup all in place and ready to go just wondering if there is anything else i should know before i get started
Thanks
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bk
New Member
Posts: 24 
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Post by bk on Dec 22, 2014 10:35:47 GMT -7
Go to failure. If you complete the set successfully, add weight the next week. I'll add 2.5-5 lbs depending on how I'm feeling on that particular grip.
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Post by kerwinl on Dec 22, 2014 10:43:02 GMT -7
Will you be following one of the hangboard workouts from the Rock Climbers Training Manual?
You may get varying opinions on this one, but I think you should add enough assistance so that you do not incur failure on every set. I think there is some benefit in going to failure (increased metabolic stress and muscle fiber recruitment), but given that the muscle groups used for all the different holds are the same (with exception to the pinch) it may impede progress if every set is to failure (to do inter-set recovery time). I have found progress to be best when the last only the last few sets of the workout are done to failure.
Try it out for yourself (to failure, and not to failure), and record your progress.
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Post by slimshaky on Dec 22, 2014 12:29:22 GMT -7
ideally you will barely 'pass' your set so that you can bump up your weight for the next time you do it.
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Post by tradmike on Dec 30, 2014 19:06:14 GMT -7
Well did my first workout today and it was rather interesting, as there were several holds that i could just barely finish the 6 reps. I realize also that with doing the first workout i am still figuring out how much weight i need to take off and which holds i am good and bad at. I ama bigger guy at 6 foot 195 i found i needed that even after removing 60 pounds I still had trouble holding onto the pinch grips and just felt like wow have a long way to progress and work on this weakness. Excited to see where i get to by the end of this phase doing the beginner workout and following the trad plan.
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Post by tedwelser on Dec 30, 2014 20:50:05 GMT -7
60 pounds off is not really that much removed when it comes to the harder grips. Consider that at -60 you are still hanging almost 70 pounds from each hand, which is like pinch gripping two 35 pound plates in each hand.
It is satisfying to figure out the right level for each grip and then get into a good series of workouts where you can see and feel the progress happening. 5 pounds every workout or two adds up after a couple weeks. Keep up the good work!
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Post by Chris W on Dec 30, 2014 21:27:47 GMT -7
Don't feel too bad Mike. I took 70 pounds off the first time I ever did the pinch grips. Have fun
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