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Post by joev9 on Nov 6, 2014 11:23:28 GMT -7
I will accept any definition of "baseline" if it gets me strong enough to climb New Baseline... vimeo.com/23876426
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Post by Carl0s on Nov 6, 2014 12:20:53 GMT -7
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 7, 2014 20:39:43 GMT -7
Nice job man! King Cobra is such a rad-looking problem. There's some great footage of Yuji Hirayama and Francois Legrand climbing it in the Mike Call film "The Professionals".
It looks like you and your spotter are wearing the same shirt in the Serpentine vid. What's up wit dat?
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Post by John H. on Nov 7, 2014 21:14:12 GMT -7
Hey guys, How many minutes of rest should I take after the 30 minute ARC warm-up session before beginning the hangboard routine? This and the intensity of the warm-up seem to affect my performance during the hangboard session. Also, people report big gains quickly as a result of these hangboard sessions and end up increasing resistance by a significant amount within a single strength training cycle. This seems surprising since the tendons and connective tissue in the fingers are slow to gain strength. The book instructs to add 5 lbs of resistance to a given grip if all the reps of the set can be completed. Of course gains will be different person to person, but how many hangboard sessions does it typically take to adapt to the additional resistance?
Thanks a lot, John
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 7, 2014 21:54:13 GMT -7
I rest about 10-15 minutes from the end of my warmup to the start of my workout. In the past I've gone as long as 45 minutes though.
For the first several sessions many people will increase most grips by 5 lb per workout. So, in many cases it only takes the two rest days after the workout to adapt to the additional resistance. Obviously results vary quite a bit depending on a multitude of factors.
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jma
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by jma on Dec 1, 2014 11:22:44 GMT -7
On a related note, how would I go about determining my baseline when doing the beginner's hangboard routine?
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Post by Carl0s on Dec 5, 2014 15:15:46 GMT -7
Nice job man! King Cobra is such a rad-looking problem. There's some great footage of Yuji Hirayama and Francois Legrand climbing it in the Mike Call film "The Professionals". It looks like you and your spotter are wearing the same shirt in the Serpentine vid. What's up wit dat? I'll have to check out that movie "The Professionals". The shirts are promoting the new Evolv climbing shoe LUCHADOR (got them free from Evolv). to report that finger strength is still improving and now I'm sending last year's projects under 5 attempts. One of these last year projects is called Gastonia, a gastone ladder on very small sharp crimps at the Buttermilks in Bishop, Ca. Here is a video of me sending it within 4 attempts a few weeks ago. So happy. Bishop Bouldering: Gastonia V8
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Post by jessebruni on Jan 27, 2015 10:25:58 GMT -7
I'm glad this thread existed because the definition of "Baseline" in the book certainly had me confused. I don't have the book in front of me so I'm not sure if this is verbatim, but I recall reading:
"Baseline is the amount of weight required to reach failure on the last rep of the last set". But then it also says that for each set you should add 10 pounds, so that for the second set you do "Baseline + 10lbs" and for the 3rd "Baseline + 20 lbs". If you were to fail on the last rep of your 3rd set, then you would have done that set with "Baseline + 20lbs" so baseline + 20lbs would be exactly "The amount of weight required to reach failure on the last rep of the last set". This would seem to indicate that for your subsequent workout your new value for baseline should be the old baseline + 20lbs, and by the 3rd set of the subsequent workout the weight would be baseline + 20 = old baseline + 40. Then of course this would mean that you moved up 20lbs in 1 workout which is totally unreasonable.
I think the issue is in the wording. I think it would cause less confusion if, in subsequent editions of the book, baseline were described as:
"(The amount of weight required to reach failure on the last rep of the last set) - (10*(S-1))lbs, where S = the total number of sets performed".
or perhaps if you are averse to using mathematical formulas in your text:
"The amount of weight used on the first set of the exercise such that, if 10 pounds per set are added to that weight, failure will occur on the last rep of the last set".
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Post by BedoEdo on Sept 6, 2017 2:53:58 GMT -7
Hi Mark, I red the entire post about baseline for hangboard routine, my baseline will be about bodyweight-14kg. My question is: in your routine (2 or 3 sets) the first set must be easy in any case? Thanks a lot. Bedoedo (Italy)
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Post by Chris W on Sept 6, 2017 4:17:17 GMT -7
At the beginning of my strength phase, the first set of all my grips is pretty easy. By the middle to the end of my strength phase, the first set in all the grips can feel pretty darn hard.
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Post by BedoEdo on Sept 7, 2017 1:04:24 GMT -7
Ok, thanks "Chris W". So you mean that baseline must be often recalculated, but your increments step are always +10lbs (set2) +20lbs (set3)? Or less in end of strenght phase? Bedoedo (Italy)
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Post by Chris W on Sept 7, 2017 4:14:40 GMT -7
Yes. I set my weights so that, if I successfully complete all the sets of the entire hangboard phase, I'll end with a new personal best that is 10 pounds higher than my previous personal best. I'll advance the weight +5 pounds for the next session if I successfully complete the sets during the current session. For example:
-Lets say that my hangboard phase is 9 total hangboard workouts. At the end of my spring season, I set a new personal best for my open hand edge, with successful completion of bodyweight (set 1), 10 pounds (set 2), 20 pounds (set 3). -My starting weights for the spring season were -40 (set 1), -30 (set 2), -20 (set 3) -Now I'm getting ready to start the fall hangboard season, so I'll shoot for weights 10 pounds higher for a new personal best at the end of the season of 10 pounds (set 1), 20 pounds (set 2), 30 pounds (set 3). -I'll set the weights for the start of the fall season first workout at -30 (set 1), -20 (set 2), -10 (set 3)
That's how I'm doing it for now. I know some other guys do things differently. Hope that makes sense.
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Post by BedoEdo on Sept 8, 2017 0:22:16 GMT -7
Ok, I understand your program!! Great! Thanks! Bedoedo
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