How to best substitute Outdoor Mileage in my Base Fitness

[MartinK]

Hi,
I am planing my Base Fitness training and need to substitute the weekend's OM. The questions are:

1. If your only option is to boulder in the gym, are you going to do:
    a) the usual ARC set?
    or
    b) set of moderate boulder problems (for example: instead of each pitch do 2-3 boulders)?

2. And can you clarify how the OM is supposed to be performed, is it:
    a) the way as described in "Outdoor Mileage Training" p100 - continuous climbing for 20-45 minutes (i.e. doing the pitches in a row)?
    or
    b) just climb the prescribed number of pitches the usual way (i.e. rest after each pitch)?
Thanks!

[MarkAnderson]

Hi Martin,

1) You can do either. If your gym has suitable ARC terrain, I would recommend the usual ARC set. If not, continuous bouldering is better than nothing. The key is to stay away from hard problems and try to boulder as continuously as possible. Ideally you would climb down the wall and hustle to the next problem.

2) Ideally, you would climb in long sets, as described on p100. Often that's not realistic, due to your partner or the nature of the crag. In that case, do the best you can. Perhaps your partner will let you climb 3 straight pitches if you let him/her climb three straight pitches first, for example.

[MartinK]

Hi Mark,

Got it! It looks like there will be a lot of ARC in my Base. I'm gonna start with it tomorrow (can't wait) so will see how it feels and goes in my gym. Thanks for the fast response, I appreciate it.

[Pete D]

I'm trying to get one of my regular partners on board with training andwe talked about each doing blocks, while this might work at the gym climbing outside doesn't lend itself as easily. So after logging our vertical ft for the few hours we were out I realized this wasn't nearly what we are capable of doing. So on the warmup routes I'm going to suggest each person does a second lap on TR right after their lead. The 2nd lap would provide an opportunity for focusing on technique and provide greater ARC training while effectively doubling the vert. ft. covered.

[MarkAnderson]

Pete, that's a great approach. I do that a lot in areas where there is only one decent warmup route. Sometimes I'll climb the same warmup 3 or 4 times in a row. Not really related to ARCing, but I like to vary the pacing, the amount of time I spend shaking, and which holds I use to progressively increase the difficulty as I warmup. If the given route is below your ARC limit, you could use the same tactic to get some variety out of the same route.