any photos of exact grips of beginner hangboard routine?

[schaefer]

Hi friends,

I usually climb very mellow, finding my sport limit around 5.10a/b (in red rock NV, which has fairly soft ratings). I started a round of periodic training after reading the The Rock Climber's Training Manual a few months ago, but when I got into hangboard training I hit a major snag. Most unwelcome finger pain.


I backed off, and gave my fingers a nice long rest while climbing offwidth. Now it's time to try again. This time I have two changes I plan to make. Firstly, I've rethought my counterweight pulley system, and made changes to greatly simplify tweaking the weights between grip positions. It's the second change I'm asking for help with. I need to verify my form for the various grips of the workout. I'm concerned that inadvertently using the wrong posture may be stressing my fingers.


So how about it? Is anyone up for posting photos of the exact grip positions for the beginner hangboard routine?


I realize there are photos in the book, but they definitely aren't "two-pad". I'm also clueless at identifying the "medium edge".

Thanks much!

[tedwelser]

Based on the photo on 115 I would say that you would be fine to start out with a shorter list than suggested.  I think the key benefits come from the general protocol, training with intensity and consistency, and listening to your body.  

I might consider a shortened list like: 

Large edge
Small edge, semi closed grip   (wide position on bottom adjustable edge)
Medium edge, semi closed grip (inner position on bottom adjustable edge, or wide on upper adjustable edge)
IMR
MRP
Wide pinch

In a practical sense this will give you 4 open hand grips, and two semi closed grips.  

This will also give you a range in terms of amount of weight to take off via pulleys.   I find the wide pinch much, much more difficult than the large edge or IMR, so finding your level on the different grips is a good learning process. 

One grip that is not listed that I really like to use in warm ups or with added weight is an open hand grip on the large pinch, with my IMR fingers over the top corner of the pinch, pinky on the flat surface of the pinch, and thumb on the side of the pinch.  This feels like the same sort of relaxed grip that I often use on resting jugs on routes, but it requires a little more hand strength, which I think makes it a good one to train.  

The key to all of this is finding your baseline, and depending on the grip that could involve adding or removing many, many pounds.   For instance, I think my baseline for the small edge in the widest position is -60 pounds, but if I were trying the shallower 2 fingers it would have to be even more weight off.   The amount of weight off does not really matter in itself-- the point is to find the right level to allow you to progress without injury.