ell
New Member
Posts: 4 
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Post by ell on Oct 31, 2014 7:30:14 GMT -7
Should I be training for strength in my core, for example working up to doing a front lever? Or should I be aiming for endurance by doing lots of leg raises? I feel that both are useful in climbing, and I'm wondering what other people do to train their core.
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Post by RyanJohnson on Oct 31, 2014 10:52:34 GMT -7
Should I be training for strength in my core, for example working up to doing a front lever? Or should I be aiming for endurance by doing lots of leg raises? I feel that both are useful in climbing, and I'm wondering what other people do to train their core. Here is a good article by Climbing Coach Steve Bechtel on core training for climbers. He doesn't present a list of specific exercises to do in this article, but instead explains what the qualities of a strong core are, i.e. anti-rotation, dynamic stability, etc. Personally, I do leg raises, push ups, planks, front levers, pistol squats, squats, and various free weight exercises that utilise the core or focus on cross body tension. I don't do all of these during on work out, but spread out among the climbing, training, and rest days. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 1, 2014 10:18:54 GMT -7
Like everything else, it depends on your goals! If you're a boulderer I would train for core power and power endurance. I like to do routes of varying lengths, usually with a good bit of "roped bouldering", so I want core power and endurance (just like I want forearm power and forearm indurance).
The best way to have both is to periodize, training strength, then power, then PE, just like we do for our fingers. Adjust the number of reps to depending on the phase.
Personally I can't figure out what a front lever has to do with rock climbing, but it does look cool. Having the strength to do a front lever surely won't hurt, but it's hardly necessary.
If you're into core training I recommend the book Gimme Kraft!, which is all about core training for climbing.
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Post by RyanJohnson on Nov 3, 2014 13:09:45 GMT -7
Personally I can't figure out what a front lever has to do with rock climbing, but it does look cool. Having the strength to do a front lever surely won't hurt, but it's hardly necessary. It certainly helps while pebble wrestling. If your goals happen to be roof problems like in the Martini roof in Hueco, or say, The Wheel of Life, then controlled foot cuts and long foot-stab placements are benefited by working front levers. There is a surprising amount of upper body pushing involved in getting a fully horizontal and extended front lever that, for me personally, has helped in long lock offs, i.e. where the locked off hand is held below the pecs. Now is it necessary for most climbing? Not in the least, and training time would be better spent on other exercises. |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 3, 2014 21:26:14 GMT -7
That's a good point. I tend to swing my feet around on terrain like that, but there are times when it would be nice to have the strength to do it more statically.
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