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Post by tradmike on Oct 15, 2014 4:23:41 GMT -7
Just wondering what everyone feels is better? I have been doing the arc traverses as of late, but have been wondering would I be better off climbing up and down various routes on auto-belay with no more rest than it takes to clip into the next route.
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Post by Jack Ziegler on Oct 15, 2014 5:46:28 GMT -7
My guess is the most sport specific training is best for arcing, so that would include laps and down climbing on very long routes and the endless tread wall. Next best would auto belay and traversing with some up and down climbing. Pure traversing would train the forearms just as well but the pulling muscles not as sport specific without going up and down a bit too.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 15, 2014 11:12:32 GMT -7
I agree climbing up and down is more specific, and probably more effective from a physical training perspective.
The catch is that most gyms already don't have enough footholds, and those they have are too big. Once you get a body-length off the ground these problems seem to become even worse (in general, it seems like you find fewer and fewer holds the higher you get, as if routesetters get tired of hauling holds up to the top of the wall). Most set routes force you into a particular sequence, making it difficult to practice a particular move (like back-flagging, or whatever you're focusing on that day). So, you're more likely to find good ARCing terrain closer to the ground.
I would split the difference and spend some time traversing, during which you can drill specific movements. Spend some time on autobelay, during which you can focus on climbing the prescribed sequence as smoothly/efficiently as possible.
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Post by tradmike on Oct 25, 2014 10:01:15 GMT -7
Was curious how is everyone measuring progress with the ARC training. I feel i can go longer but i'm not sure if the traversing is getting any harder. I am also trying to use smaller footholds and slightly more overhanging terrain while traversing. I can kinda gauge when doing auto belay laps. Want to get the best benefit from this. And not just traverse aimlessly with no objective.
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Post by brendann on Oct 30, 2014 8:02:18 GMT -7
The best way to measure progress is to hop on a rope and climb a certain grade for 20 minutes.
The best way to push ARCing harder is to climb on steeper walls or smaller holds. You can set multiple timers to split up your 20 min ARC into chunks and try to increase the steep climbing chunk every session.
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