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Post by lvcrimping on Oct 19, 2014 18:48:30 GMT -7
Hello,
Starting my first advanced HB work out sessions and I'm wondering if it is more effective on hard to improve grips such as pinch and small semi closed crimp to increase weight at intervals of 5lb instead of 10lb. So the work out for these grip looks like baseline, +5LB, +10LB. My thinking is that you end up training that grip at higher weights for more time because the first/second set are closer to failure. Also it make stepping up more feasible.
Thought on Advantages disadvantages?
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bk
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Post by bk on Oct 20, 2014 9:44:03 GMT -7
Hello, Starting my first advanced HB work out sessions and I'm wondering if it is more effective on hard to improve grips such as pinch and small semi closed crimp to increase weight at intervals of 5lb instead of 10lb. So the work out for these grip looks like baseline, +5LB, +10LB. My thinking is that you end up training that grip at higher weights for more time because the first/second set are closer to failure. Also it make stepping up more feasible. Thought on Advantages disadvantages? I've tried both. I found I was able to progress more quickly with the 10 lb increment. I suspect the reason is that my last set, I'm closer to my true maximum weight since I'm less fatigued from earlier sets. |
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Post by jdgilberg on Oct 20, 2014 11:39:18 GMT -7
I've thought about the increment differences as well. What I think you have to take into account is does the extra amount you are able to add to the final set offset the lower weights for the earlier sets?
I've also wondered if it is more beneficial to end with the heaviest weight possible or with a higher volume over the 3 sets combined. I've leaned towards the greater volume personally.
To answer the original question, I start with intervals of 5lbs going down 5lbs per workout. When I can't finish the 3rd set I go down 5lbs for the first set of the next workout but change the increment to 2.5lbs. This makes the next workout end with the same weight but the volume to get there is increased.
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Post by slimshaky on Oct 20, 2014 13:04:36 GMT -7
this is a very good question, and one that i have spent a lot of time (years literally) wondering about. for my workout protocol, a very simplified description of it would be that i increase the loads between sets by 2.5 lbs. so, for example if my first set is +5 lbs, my second is +7.5, and my 3rd is +10 (this is assuming i 'pass' each set, and sometimes if a set is too easy i will increase the load by 5 lbs for the next one, instead of by 2.5 lbs). this effectively means that i start my first set at quite a bit higher load, and that the volume is higher overall. however, this makes a big assumption - is the volume really more in this case, or would it be more if i was doing a lighter load on the first set, but a heavier load on the last set? also, which is more important - volume, or max strength?
looking back on this, i am not completely sure it has been a good idea. i think there are trade-offs with this approach, and i can only speak from my own experience, but here is my theory. i think setting my HB workout up this way works well in terms of preparing myself for giving a higher volume of quality effort on hard routes in a single day. however, i do think that there is a significant possibility that this has come at some unknown cost to building my maximum strength. for the projects i am working on now, i really think the max strength is more important than my strength-stamina. at this stage in my career, i can get by with less time on a route, primarily through tactics (ie notes, mental rehearsal, etc). however, if i am not strong enough to do the moves, there is no hope. plain and simple.
this current HB cycle i have switched to a 5 lb interval for the full crimp and pinch grips, and the results seem pretty good. these are my last 2 grips in my workout, and i feel like using a bigger interval and a lighter first set is helpful for combatting the cumulative fatigue of the workout.
during my next HB cycle, i am thinking about switching to the 5 lb interval for the other grips. it will be interesting to see how the results come out.
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Post by slimshaky on Oct 20, 2014 13:06:35 GMT -7
another thought on this - skin. doing the 10 lb interval would be a LOT easier on my skin. this isn't as much of an issue with the RPTC board. i haven't missed a single rep (on my 5th cycle) due to skin. however, that being said, i am a fanatic with the sand paper, and a ton of other skin care work.
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bk
New Member
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Post by bk on Oct 20, 2014 13:10:10 GMT -7
I've also wondered if it is more beneficial to end with the heaviest weight possible or with a higher volume over the 3 sets combined. I've leaned towards the greater volume personally. It depends on what you mean by beneficial. If the goal is to increase strength (as opposed to endurance), higher weight/lower volume is more beneficial. Of course, what really matters is how changes in strength and endurance effect your climbing which is an entirely more complicated problem. My philosophy is that climbers get lots of high volume exercise. For my hangboard workouts, I'm focusing on strength. |
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Post by jdgilberg on Oct 20, 2014 14:21:38 GMT -7
It depends on what you mean by beneficial. If the goal is to increase strength (as opposed to endurance), higher weight/lower volume is more beneficial. That is what I meant and your point makes sense. I've been thinking about switching it up for the next cycle then comparing logs, I'll probably go this direction. Thanks |
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Post by lvcrimping on Oct 20, 2014 15:39:39 GMT -7
Hmm thanks for the thoughts. I agree HB work out if for sheer strength not insurance so I guess i will save the endurance for PE. Just have to say though, if I'm training my muscles to endure higher weight for a longer period of time will my max recruitment in the end go up because the base fitness of those muscles is better?
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