Grips used during hangboard workouts

[samb]

I have just started my first strength phase, using the beginner workout. Is the 9 grip workout proposed in the book designed to be used in the same order every single time, or should I scramble the grips? It seems the first couple grips will be getting a much more effective workout since I'm fresh when I begin, versus the last couple where I'm pumped and tired from going through all the previous grips. I find myself needing to remove weight to get through, say, the large edge, when I could do it with much more resistance if it was first.

Related to this question is pacing through the hangboard routine. Like I said above, I may be able to really go for it and max out on the IMR grip, but sacrifice how much resistance I can use later on for the 2 finger or large edge.

To summarize, should my goal be to get my body to where I use similar resistance on every grip throughout the workout? And, should I randomize the order of grips? Thanks!

[Jack Ziegler]

Depends on what your goals are. If you have a particular type of climbing you like (pockets or crimps) then do those first. If not, then I think it's good to mix it up.

[Chris W]

This question was asked elsewhere, I just can't remember where. I believe the Anderson's recommended picking the grips most pertinent to your goals and putting them first in the workout. If you work each grip in the same order each workout, the later grips may suffer in the total weight you use, but you are still training them to get stronger. Using grips in a consistent order will allow you to better track your progress.

[MarkAnderson]

Ya, what Chris said. Once I settle on a grip order, I use the same order every workout so I can track my progress. I *think* the later grips are getting worked just as well as the earlier grips, even though it may not look like it on paper. This really shouldn't be a huge problem with the Beginner workout since the total workout volume is so low. Once you get used to the routine, you whould find you're just starting to get really warmed up by the end. Or maybe I just think that because I've been doing 20 sets or so per workout for ten years and that's normal to me.

Regarding your other question, no, you should NOT be trying to converge to where you are using the same resistance for every grip. Some grips are more difficult than others. Your goal should be to maximize the resistance on every grip.

[aoktav]

Oct 9, 2014 13:16:46 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

Ya, what Chris said. Once I settle on a grip order, I use the same order every workout so I can track my progress. I *think* the later grips are getting worked just as well as the earlier grips, even though it may not look like it on paper. This really shouldn't be a huge problem with the Beginner workout since the total workout volume is so low. Once you get used to the routine, you whould find you're just starting to get really warmed up by the end. Or maybe I just think that because I've been doing 20 sets or so per workout for ten years and that's normal to me.

Regarding your other question, no, you should NOT be trying to converge to where you are using the same resistance for every grip. Some grips are more difficult than others. Your goal should be to maximize the resistance on every grip.

Hey Mark, I found this thread realated to my questions below.
I climb mostly in 5.10 range outside and I want to get a solid base before I climb harder grades. I have no specific routes for my project but, I live in Golden, CO so I climb sport routes in CCC and Shelf Road for pocket climbing. I'm new in hangboarding and started my HB#1 last week using protocol from the RCTM book and the Rock Prodigy hangboard.I fall into Beginner routine and following the reccomended grips as stated in page 119:
1. Warm-up Jug
2. IMR 2-pad 3F pocket
3. Medium edge (semi-closed)
4. Medium pinch
5. MR 2-pad 2Fpocket
6. Large open-and edge
7. Wide pinch
8. Sloper
9. MRP 2-pad 3F pocket

I followed the grips position as in the illustration of page 115 and marked it on the paper (pic. 1).

Pic. 1

Question:
1. I found that grip #2 and #5 only fit 1 pad (not 2) and grip #9 fits 2 pads. As a beginner hangboarder should I keep using them as in pic 1 or should I use the hold for grip #9 for grip #2 & #5 too (Pic. 2) since it fits 2 pads?


Pic. 2

2. When you say Medium edge (grip #3) what does it mean? Is is something different from person to person or there is a specific rule?

I want to have a room for growth in hangboarding specifically so hopefully I can get a better understanding of it.

Thanks!

P.S. I just got my RPTC board so I can train effectively, rather than waiting in line at the gym.

[jeremie]

Hi aoktav,

I'm just finishing up my first strength phase, and I did pretty much exactly the same grips as you showed in Fig 1. I found that it went pretty well. The only difference I did was on grip 3 I used the variable depth edge just below grip 6.

Based on my session going pretty well, I would suggest starting with Fig 1. If it feels way too hard during your first session, then swap to Fig 2. which would definitely be easier. It's probably also easier on the skin to use different pockets since the edge will be at different parts of your finger.

[jetjackson]

That's a lot of grips, and I'd think you're going to see diminishing returns on the latter grips. I'd drop the MRP at the very least. Quality vs. quantity. Just me though...