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Post by erik on Sept 12, 2014 14:24:24 GMT -7
Hello Mike and Mark!
First of all, thank you for providing us with this tremendous resource. I've already planned out one season of a training program and, since I'm currently in northern Canada, I set the goal of following three seasons of this program with the hopes of getting out to climb in the Bow Valley in summer 2015.
My question involves ARC. While I do think it's beneficial to build a base and I did climb like this primarily during my first few years of climbing (I spent hours traversing the gym walls that had various angles), I was wondering if it would be okay to skip it and move on to more of a strength phase or more of a power endurance phase. I have climbed a few 5.14s while I was a full-time teacher and student in South Korea. While there, I didn't really follow a structured training program other than doing laps on hard circuits, hang boarding a few times a week, and then getting on the project during climbing season. I guess my sessions in the gym while living in South Korea were all designed to build strength for a certain project. Now that I'm here in Canada, and it's going to be impossible for me to get out and look at potential projects for at least a year, I guess I'm kind of stuck trying to figure out what to do for training. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 14, 2014 10:40:59 GMT -7
It's certainly ok to modify the program to suit your needs. ARC training is more beneficial for beginners who need a lot of time to work on technique and to build a general base of climbing fitness to build from. Climbers who have been at it for a long time and have solid technical skills can get by with very little ARCing. I've done seasons without any ARCing, and when I do ARC I rarely do more than a week (3-4 workouts) of it.
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Post by Chris W on Sept 14, 2014 16:19:01 GMT -7
Maybe I'm deluding myself, but I think my technique is actually pretty good and I've gotten a lot out of ARCing so far. I seem, however, to fail on climbs because I get pumped and my training goals revolve around a trip to the Red. I suppose if you're climbing 5.14, however, you could do pretty much whatever you want.....
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