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Post by Mike Anderson on Apr 8, 2014 17:50:25 GMT -7
Post your sport climbing related questions.
I have one for you...
Is it better to dedicate your season to one really hard mega-project, or should your try to climb a grade or two "easier" and tick a bunch of routes in one season? |
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Post by danielr on Apr 15, 2014 10:26:31 GMT -7
Well it seems funny answering this since you guys are the experts and wrote the book, but I will weigh in with my perspective.
Climbing a grade or two easier but ticking alot of almost my very limit hard routes is just way more fun for me. There are too many amazing routes out there to lose too much time to a single one.
That said I am just getting into training and am seeing regular improvement if I had been stuck at a grade for a long time maybe the satisfaction of breaking that grade would be worth the mega-project.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 15, 2014 17:34:18 GMT -7
I would definitely argue that favoring several easier projects most of the time will ultimately make you a better climber over the long haul. I also think its more fun. But like Daniel said, eventually we all need to go the 'mega-project' route to break through a plateau.
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Post by KC on Apr 21, 2014 10:04:15 GMT -7
I don't feel that that dilemma. I usually pick a hard project and then get my mileage on the warmups. With 7 days in a week, getting on easier routes while working a hard rig shouldn't be a problem.
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Post by Chris W on Apr 25, 2014 18:49:25 GMT -7
Post your sport climbing related questions.
I have one for you...
Is it better to dedicate your season to one really hard mega-project, or should your try to climb a grade or two "easier" and tick a bunch of routes in one season? I'm trying to figure this one out myself as I make up my yearly training plan. I've been climbing for 5 years and have just started training this March. Thanks to you guys, I've finally got a useable training plan. I've been stuck at 5.11 for four years and, with two "seasons" to work for it (summer training season and fall training season), am hoping to send a 5.12a in October. I'm planning a trip to the Red with the goal route of Twinkie at the Phantasia crag. I'm considering that a "mega" project, but am hoping to increase my fitness enough that I can climb a lot of 5.11 and 5.10 routes while I'm there. Not sure exactly how this is going to work. I guess I'm trying to do both.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 27, 2014 7:29:09 GMT -7
Twinkie's a great route, good choice! Be sure to include "Lock-off Laps" in your Supplemental Exercises. Attachments:
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Post by emperorsnewclothes on Jul 28, 2014 12:09:00 GMT -7
For me it's a question of motivation. The thought of sending 10 routes a letter or two below my max redpoint doesn't get me out of bed and onto my hangboard. The poster of the mega-proj on the wall does. I think it's because subconsciously I feel like I could send the 10 easier routes without any additional effort.
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