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Post by daustin on Jun 13, 2014 14:37:41 GMT -7
Thanks for the detailed response, Mark! Really helpful to get your insight. I think I am getting too pumped, too -- which actually probably highlights how much of a weakness base fitness was for me, likely due to my less-than-desired amount of time climbing outdoors, and disproportionate amount of time spent bouldering and trying hard routes in the gym! I've done a few ARC workouts now, and have already noticed a significant improvement, which is likely influenced more by familiarity with the terrain and efficiency, but still feels good. I also think that as my ankle heals I'll be able to rest more effectively/creatively, as my range of motion is somewhat constrained right now.
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Post by kerwinl on Jun 26, 2014 16:26:39 GMT -7
As a recent convert to trad/sport from bouldering, I have been realizing very large gains in climbing ability by continuing to boulder about 2 sessions per week, along with two sessions of base/arc. I know at some point there will be a plateau of performance from simply arcing and bouldering, are there any guidelines for rough arcing ability vs. performance on routes?
Say if you want to climb 5.13 you should be able to arc 5.12-? I am trying to find the point of diminishing returns and move back into a periodized plan that will promote all phases of ability. Instead of increasing base, while striving to maintain strength.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 29, 2014 14:14:27 GMT -7
...are there any guidelines for rough arcing ability vs. performance on routes? Say if you want to climb 5.13 you should be able to arc 5.12-? I am trying to find the point of diminishing returns and move back into a periodized plan that will promote all phases of ability. Instead of increasing base, while striving to maintain strength. It totally depends on the type of route. A 5.13 in the Madness Cave at The Red will require much better ARC fitness than a 5.13 at Wild Iris. So to answer your first question, I would say "no" So many training dilemmas depend completely on your goals. Even if you're just looking for general improvement, its worth considering what your local crags are like and what type of routes you prefer (or which weaknesses you are hoping to improve). I live in Colorado where most of the time my route climbing is limited by power, so I favor power in my training.
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Post by kerwinl on Jul 1, 2014 13:15:31 GMT -7
Mark, thanks for the response.
Very valid points about climbing style and how it dictates the necessary fitness. As a climber new to routes it is hard to tell if the limiting factor is my technique that leads to getting pumped, or simply if the climbing is strenuous enough that I will get pumped. I think a indicator is how much the pump varies from first go on the route (onsight attempt) to the redpoint. If there is a significant drop in pump from the first to second attempt, it is probably poor technique (overgripping, poor breathing, etc), but if the climbing remains strenuous even on the redpoint send then it is probably actually a difficult climb physically.
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Post by emperorsnewclothes on Jul 28, 2014 14:39:58 GMT -7
Speaking of ARC-ing, I find the greatest limitation to long sessions multiple times a week to be my skin. Any thoughts? Should I just deal with it or are there some secret tips that I'm missing?
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Post by brendann on Jul 29, 2014 8:27:39 GMT -7
Speaking of ARC-ing, I find the greatest limitation to long sessions multiple times a week to be my skin. Any thoughts? Should I just deal with it or are there some secret tips that I'm missing? Since most of the time I am ARCing on jugs, I find I need to keep the area where a ring would sit as lightly-callused as possible. I use the disposable razors that are too dull for shaving as a skin-shaving tool, along with emory boards. I also find that if I let any callus get too big it will 'pull' the skin around it apart, causing splits between the joints. These techniques along with nightly moisturizer let me ARC up to 10 20min. sets a week. Hope that helps.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jul 29, 2014 10:07:35 GMT -7
Speaking of ARC-ing, I find the greatest limitation to long sessions multiple times a week to be my skin. Any thoughts? Should I just deal with it or are there some secret tips that I'm missing? This thread has some discussion about skin care for ARCing.
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