Reps/sets for weight training during strength phase

[mk]

I got my book earlier this week and am very impressed - this is a great new training resource for climbers.

I'm planning on starting a training phase soon and am curious about the rep/set recommendation for the supplemental weight exercises in the strength training phase.  Lock-offs seem to be a relative weakness for me, so, assuming I wanted to add weighted pullups as one of my exercises, how many reps and sets should I do?  The usual strength training advice is 3-5 reps per set, 6-8 for functional hypertrophy, and number of sets is all over the place.

[Mike Anderson]

I keep it pretty simple myself. For weighted pullups, I start out the phase doing 3 sets of 10, then I taper down to 3x8 as I progress through the strength phase and increase resistance. I do inverted rows as well, which are body weight only (you could use a weight vest or similar), so I do 3 sets of ten of those, but I try to progress through the phase by increasing the length of the dwell time at the top of each rep (holding the lock off longer before lowering), and by reaching higher.