How screwed am I for a Rainbow Wall attempt?

[Tristan]

So I set a goal of doing the Original Route (12b, 14 pitches) of the Rainbow Wall in Red Rock this fall. I had this goal because I'm coming back from an injury and, instead of trying to push grades into 5.13-, I thought it would be fun to better consolidate my solidness at 5.12-.

I've climbed a handful of sandstone 5.12-, but all were single pitch sport or sport/trad mix. I have a lot of experience climbing long routes, but I've not typically pushed harder than 5.10+ on those routes (the Feather Buttress of Warbonnet is hella hard though).

That said, I just got back from a trip to climb the Direct Beckey (5.11-, 12 pitches) on Elephant's Perch where I got totally wrecked by the route. I had a heavy backpack, about 20-25lbs to start, and I think the combo of that and perhaps poor cardio really killed me. It ended up being the deepest I've ever had to dig to finish a route and I ended up having to follow most of the route and pull on gear for at least half the pitches.

I've been thinking about the climb a lot since we did it and think I could change a few things a would've done a lot better. A lighter pack/hauling the pack on hard pitches to save the follower, have better general cardio, be better at climbing granite (perhaps less applicable for the Rainbow Wall attempt. I have much more experience climbing harder stuff on sandstone, not just crack climbing), and... just be more prepared to climb long, hard routes?

So I've got an attempt scheduled for the Rainbow Wall the last weekend of September, and I've got a second attempt (on the chance I don't do it the first go) scheduled for the second weekend of October. That gives me about 2 months to do last-minute prep. In the early part of this year I focused on climbing a few 12+ sport routes so 12- would be a smaller percentage of my max. Starting in June I started doing a cycle with much higher volume to get really really solid at 11+ climbing while trying to maintain my ability to climb 12- relatively easily (haven't onsighted any this year but have done quite a few in two goes).

I plan to continue pushing volume over the next 1.5 months and then taper down to peak for the first attempt.

I've got a good partner lined up for my first attempt who's psyched to play support crew, lead easy pitches (there are five or six), and has substantial big wall experience (aided the nose this year). I'm going to go up there regardless, and I'll have a good time whether I send or not because it's amazing up there. But Direct Beckey definitely shook my confidence in my chances on the Rainbow Wall.

I wonder if any folks here have any insights into how screwed I am or any suggestions for this last cycle before the big go?

[Charlie S]

End of September, that's 8 weeks. You could start something and make progress by then. I've done a handful of "mini cycles" for things like this but they usually only eek out 1 or 2 letter grades.

I have not done the hike to Rainbow Wall, but I've walked to some nearby cliffs. It is not a short walk.

According to MP, all the cruxes are distinct and well protected, so that bodes well if you can hang on long enough through the opening moves.

For a pack, I'd suggest the Blue Ice 8L or 12L. I got the 8L, I wonder if I should have gotten the 12L. Keeps water close to your body, off the harness, and has a runners-type strap/harness that feels better than a lightweight daypack.
us.blueice.com/products/reach-8

As for fitness, you've identified cardio as a weakness which is important for alpine climbing. Personally, I'd do stairmaster intervals for 20 minutes, building to 40, 2 times a week.

Climbing 5.12 trad is a weird animal. It requires confidence on gear placements (and fast ones at that). I'd cater your hangboarding to strength-endurance, but given the choice, I'd go do a bunch of trad climbing between now and then in the 5.11-5.12 range. Identify any weaknesses and then refine your program around that.

[Tristan]

Hey Charlie, thanks for the response.

I hadn't heard of Blue Ice before this. Looking around on the site and they have some really cool looking gear. Thanks for the cool plug for them. Now do I get one of those or finally get a Cold Cold World pack I've always wanted...

Yeah, as I've been climbing outside, I'm thinking more and more it's going to come down to cardio and multipitch endurance. I'm fairly confident in "doing the moves" on the hardest stuff, it's just the 14 pitches and the hike in that I think will be my downfall.

[j]

Doubt is normal as the big goal approaches. I think Charlie makes some good points. If you have the opprotunity to climb a couple more big days outdoors between now and then to dial your systems I would prioritize that.