Post by sytse on Jan 12, 2022 6:40:04 GMT -7
Hi Mark and Mike,
I was just rereading the chapter about base fitness in your book. Still really loving the part about the physiology. We have progressed a few years and new researched has arrived on the topic of endurance training. I was curious if you have any new insights on this topic and if we could discuss some of my ideas.
Recently I finished reading numerous scientific papers (mostly reviews and meta analysis) on training capillarization and mitochondrial functioning. While the research usses cyclic types of sports, I still feel the knowledge gained is very relevant for climbing.
First let me discuss mitochondrial density and output. I will point out some conclusions that were communicated in the research:
- There seems to be two pathways by which mitochondrial functioning is improved. That being said, most improvements on this front were seen with interval training with higher efforts (HITT and SITT). Better results than continuous anaerobic threshold/MSS type training.
- there seems to be higher increase of this marker of mitochondrial adaptation post training when acidity did not rise to really high levels. Does seems to be case for NOT letting the interval training reach a point when we see relatively high levels of lactate in the blood. In other words, no all out efforts.
Unfortunately training for angiogenis and other improvements in blood supply towards the local muscle is less researched. Improvements in capilarization are being seen in many different exercise intensities and modalities, high rep resistance training, BFR, HITT and continuous training. That being said, when volume is equalized, MICT (medium intensity continuous training) seems to be as effective as interval training. Combined with that total volume is likely to play a big role in optimizing angiogenesis, it looks must helpful to select MICT for this type of training because of a better adaptation:fatigue ratio. MICT is performed at an intensity below MSS.
The above findings seems to also support the effectiveness of contrast training with less emphasis on threshold/MSS training. Good results in contrast training are found when endurance athletes shift the majority of there endurance training towards the MICT type interventions.
For optimization purposes in mind, I wonder if the ARC training described in your books is of a too high intensity; Medium pump level just in control. Or that it should be biased more towards a really mild pump level. This would allow more volume to be made and more room for the maintenance of other fitness qualities (strength, power and other endurance qualities).
I see also benefit of including some form of interval training which is easier than the power endurance work you describe in your book. Which means equal or less rest than work, more volume and medium pump level at the end of the session (same pump level as the ARC training described in the book).
These two types of session (continuous and interval) would be used for building the aerobic endurance placing more emphasis on continuous in the beginning of a training cycle and moving towards more interval at the end.
I am really curious about your perspective on this. Cheers and have a great day.
Sytse.
I was just rereading the chapter about base fitness in your book. Still really loving the part about the physiology. We have progressed a few years and new researched has arrived on the topic of endurance training. I was curious if you have any new insights on this topic and if we could discuss some of my ideas.
Recently I finished reading numerous scientific papers (mostly reviews and meta analysis) on training capillarization and mitochondrial functioning. While the research usses cyclic types of sports, I still feel the knowledge gained is very relevant for climbing.
First let me discuss mitochondrial density and output. I will point out some conclusions that were communicated in the research:
- There seems to be two pathways by which mitochondrial functioning is improved. That being said, most improvements on this front were seen with interval training with higher efforts (HITT and SITT). Better results than continuous anaerobic threshold/MSS type training.
- there seems to be higher increase of this marker of mitochondrial adaptation post training when acidity did not rise to really high levels. Does seems to be case for NOT letting the interval training reach a point when we see relatively high levels of lactate in the blood. In other words, no all out efforts.
Unfortunately training for angiogenis and other improvements in blood supply towards the local muscle is less researched. Improvements in capilarization are being seen in many different exercise intensities and modalities, high rep resistance training, BFR, HITT and continuous training. That being said, when volume is equalized, MICT (medium intensity continuous training) seems to be as effective as interval training. Combined with that total volume is likely to play a big role in optimizing angiogenesis, it looks must helpful to select MICT for this type of training because of a better adaptation:fatigue ratio. MICT is performed at an intensity below MSS.
The above findings seems to also support the effectiveness of contrast training with less emphasis on threshold/MSS training. Good results in contrast training are found when endurance athletes shift the majority of there endurance training towards the MICT type interventions.
For optimization purposes in mind, I wonder if the ARC training described in your books is of a too high intensity; Medium pump level just in control. Or that it should be biased more towards a really mild pump level. This would allow more volume to be made and more room for the maintenance of other fitness qualities (strength, power and other endurance qualities).
I see also benefit of including some form of interval training which is easier than the power endurance work you describe in your book. Which means equal or less rest than work, more volume and medium pump level at the end of the session (same pump level as the ARC training described in the book).
These two types of session (continuous and interval) would be used for building the aerobic endurance placing more emphasis on continuous in the beginning of a training cycle and moving towards more interval at the end.
I am really curious about your perspective on this. Cheers and have a great day.
Sytse.