Post by dave on Dec 23, 2021 9:53:35 GMT -7
Hi everyone,
after my very successful first two phases of the RPTM, I'm playing around a bit with the base phase. Basically I ended my season mid November (as scheduled). I did not really rest (did not at all feel like it) but instead had some kind of taper towards the season's end (and also had included two five day mini rest phases in my performance phase) as conditions got worse.
With life's limitations and also conditions here being sub par at least until mid March I found myself with a few weeks of extra time to play around.
So I started a longer basephase including hangboard maxhangs for two times a week. Basically I do:
Day 1: Maxhangs (3 grip types; HC (6 sets), FC (3 sets), 3FD (3 sets) + some SE
Day 2: ARC + SE
Day 3: off
repeat
Day 1 may be replaced by limit bouldering when I can make it to the gym (and gym's open...)
Day 2 may be either at the gym or at home (see below...)
My gym is a spraywall only gym.
Both days may be replaced by fun outdoor days if conditions and life allow it. Sometimes I will add an extra rest day.
Works like a charm so far. I was able to step up my maxhangs quite a bit and my AeroCap also seems to improve.
For my ARC days I try to get in the gym and either do classic ARC circuits or some kind of 1on1off AeroCap workout from the crimpd app.
Unfortunately gyms had to close again because of covid and I had to resort to some kind of home hangboard AeroCap workout. For this, I'm doing repeaters at about 40% (as via crimpd: ten sets one minute on/one off) but I do not rest completely in between the sets. Instead I do my SE (mostly ring work) in the "off" minutes. This gives me a feeling, that mimics aerobic climbing very well for me (feels like the perfect ARC intensity is described in the book: Elevated heart rate, starting to sweat after some time, low and manageable pump). I do two rounds รก 20 minutes, seperated by some rest.
I will soon return to the OG plan and start a strength phase by the book to peak in March/April.
FYI, I climb low 13s, mostly bouldery routes on limestone (Frankenjura).
What are your thoughts on including max hangs into the Base phase to maintain or (in my case right now) even improve fingerstrength (recruitment?) before switching to repeaters?
What are your thoughts on simulating ARCing with the combination of low intensity repeaters and supplemental exercises? For me, it feels very time efficient and quite less dull that my typical ARC session.