Speed wall for power training?

[jackmarr]

Hello all-

I am new to this forum and to the RCTM, though have been climbing for many years and doing other periodic training especially Training for the New Alpinism the past few years. This is my first go at structured rock training. 

I am approaching my power cycle and am thinking about perhaps incorporating our gym's new speed wall. Seems at least to me to be a good power exercise, as the route is short (30 ft. or so) or perhaps PE. I am a bit apprehensive about too much campusing as I am 50 and have had some elbow tendon issues in the past, though hangboarding is going well. I also like the idea of it (perfecting motion on a standardized route, very different than most climbing but a lot like strength/power training), the standardization overall, and the ability to time it. 

Does anyone have any experience or thoughts on this? Searched the forums for similar posts and did not find one, so feel free to redirect if this has been well-covered! 

Great resource and thanks to the Andersons and all for the excellent ideas and methods. 

[sbleazard]

If you can do speed runs up a speed wall, maybe the movement isn't hard enough? It certainly trains the time part of the definition of power (ability to exert force in a short period of time), but I think there's more to power training than speed. It teaches tension and technique too, things you need outside. Speed climbing is just not very specific to (but a few) outdoor projects. What are your goals in this training?
As for not wanting to campus... maybe just do limit boulders instead that target your goals/weaknesses.

[jackmarr]

Thanks for the reply sbleazard. First off, I can't do speed runs up it yet so that is in itself a minor goal. I agree about tension and technique but arguably you get as much of if not more of at least a fairly specific kind of this from a speed wall than a campus board. My goals in this training cycle is to go through a cycle and see what happens in terms of improvements so that I can see where to focus on the next one- in the past I have mostly onsighted and climbed what I liked, a few times going through some serious outdoor/indoor projecting. I am definitely going to limit boulder and like the Moon Board for this. We'll see about campusing.

Overall I am enjoying the training process and am definitely feeling gains not only in finger strength from the HB routine (5 down 3 to go) but also in the way I approach holds such as possible pinches and pockets- I am aiming for them, not around. Interested what the next phase will bring (as well as the PE phase, which I have played around with before in climbing but never properly trained).

[sbleazard]

If you are motivated by tangible training gains, then a speed wall would be good.