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Post by huntermiles on Aug 26, 2021 10:58:51 GMT -7
Hey I just started my first power phase today and was not able to pull one move on the campus board. Should I use a spotter to assist me or should I just wait until I have more strength and power? Should I just stick to bouldering for now?
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Post by leoing on Aug 27, 2021 1:14:52 GMT -7
Feet on campussing on bigger rungs, learn lock-offs, always perfect form (maybe need to step back to pull ups, or body rows).
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Post by jetjackson on Aug 29, 2021 19:21:27 GMT -7
Just stick to bouldering for now.
If you have access to a Moon/Tension/Kilter board, they are all very good for training power because they focus on problems that will require contact power on big deadpoints, generating momentum of bad hands and feet in different directions. I just Moonboard for power now, I feel it's more specific and I don't have any projects where I feel the campus board would be more beneficial than just doing harder problems on the Moonboard.
If you don't have access to any of these, try and find problems at your gym that use big movement, deadpoints and relatively smaller holds. I.e. not tension problems or overhangs with heel hook / toe hook trickery, or comp style co-ordination problems. Dyno's are okay, but Dyno's off massive jugs to massive jugs, while fun, are not going to help you train power in a way that translates to outside.
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Post by huntermiles on Aug 30, 2021 7:17:53 GMT -7
Awesome! Thanks for the response Jet. I’ll just stick with bouldering for now. What do you think of the other reply saying to do feet on campusing?
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Post by jetjackson on Aug 31, 2021 0:31:09 GMT -7
Feet on campusing - really only something I'd consider if there was absolutely no access to powerful bouldering.
With enough bouldering at your limit, you will be able to come back to the campus board in a few seasons and pull those moves. You can always add some explosive pull-ups as a supplemental exercise at the end of your limit bouldering workout if you just want to train the big muscle groups for explosive power.
Again though, the campus board is a tool with high injury risk, low specificity. IMO it really is overrated. Using a training board like Lattice/Moon really teaches you how to generate momentum from poor hands/feet, in weird positions, and is so much more specific to climbing.
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