Only HB during the Strength Phase of Season Training Plan?

[caclimber]

Hi,

I was surprised to see that hang boarding was only included in the Strength Phase of the sample Seasonal Training Plans. For example, the novice plan includes 7 total HB workouts between week 5-7.

Is the plan implying we should entirely stop hang boarding for the other 14 weeks of the training cycle? 

Thanks!

[jetjackson]

Yes. The intent here being that the novice spend more time on more specific training - i.e. climbing, than hang-boarding.

7 hangboard sessions should take at least 21 days with adequate rest - in a 16 week cycle that is technically 3 weeks.

If you're limit bouldering and getting out on the rock and trying hard, you will hold on to a lot of that strength into the majority of your performance phase. In one season where I spent heaps of time on the moonboard and climbed mostly short fingery routes, I still had very close to the same level of finger strength when I came back to the hangboard phase in the next cycle.