home board, when is it really not steep enough?

[mcd]

Hi!

I am in the middle of building a new home for my wife and I, and part of the project is that I have the green light to build myself a training wall. I have read many posts on this forum and online about wall angles, but was looking for some more advise.

I was thinking about building my wall at around 15 degrees 11' tall by 10'6" wide. This angle seams on the low end of most recommendations, but my reasoning goes like this, at 41years I am climbing 12- sport and bouldering around V4 ,mostly training for sport and trad routes, bouldering for fun and practice. Most often these climbs are barely past vertical. I obviously still want to improve, but it seams like I should be able to create difficult problems for myself at this angle, as well as some endurance training. I Also need a wall that isn't to steep for other people in my household to climb on, who are less strong than I am. I do have access to steeper walls at a friends house and at our local gym, when it is open.

At what level of climbing do you think a single training wall at 15 degrees will limit your ability to improve? There probably isn't really an answer to this question, but I would like to hear some other opinions.

[Charlie S]

I really liked my 15 degree wall, and I'm planning on building another one here soon if the shed builder can get their act together.

Pros to a 15 degree wall:
Easy to warm up on
Easy to do endurance on
Routes get harder by making holds smaller, less secure, odd body placements
Can create powerful moves, but requires some creativity

Cons:
Not a Moonboard (I have an addiction...)

I really don't think you can go wrong with a 15. For what it's worth, I also had a 30 degree at one point and barely used it. Steep enough to be harder than a 15 but not steep enough to make me choose it often.

[Leoing]

Make it inclinable? There are some pretty simple solutions around, like:
grundkurs-bouldern.de/2020/12/frei-stehende-heimkletterwand-bauen-mein-homeboard-2-0-im-detail-erklaert/
translate.google.com/?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&text=http%3A%2F%2Fgrundkurs-bouldern.de%2F2020%2F12%2Ffrei-stehende-heimkletterwand-bauen-mein-homeboard-2-0-im-detail-erklaert%2F&op=translate

You could also squeeze out some difficulty with (selfmade) wooden holds.

I like the idea to have an inclinable Moon-board, to have a community and sneak up on harder problems (too weak to make any use of the 40 degrees ATM).

[mcd]

Thanks for the input Charlie, I think that angle will be totally fine for my current level of climbing. I was starting to worry that it would be something I might grow out of, but I think that I will cross that bridge if I ever get there.

I did look at adjustable walls, but I am not really keen on most of the home job methods of achieving this.

[sbleazard]

I think it'll be fine, as long as you don't plan on doing any steep stuff in the future... I'm in a similar posistion. I rarely doing anything steep, so my 20 degree wall works well.

[Charlie S]

I trained for my first and second 13a primarily on the 15, especially when it came to power-endurance laps.

[mcd]

that's good to hear, I have a few good seasons to get to that point! I also have a bit of space for a proper campus board, hang board and a TRX, so I think my training facility will be one less excuse I can use.