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Post by lukerents on Nov 28, 2020 10:14:51 GMT -7
So for almost a year now I have been struggling with tennis elbow and a finger injury (swelling and loss of motion around middle knuckle of middle finger). More recently (last four months) I have been getting early symptoms for what I think is carpal tunnel (strong tingly sensation in upper forearm). I typically climb/train three to four days a week and do a fair amount of manual labor for work. I have worked with a climbing specific physical therapist for the last three months, which has helped but the injury symptoms seem to always be coming and going. I am not super worried about my finger but am worried that I am over working my body and if I keep this up, the other injuries will become chronic. I am now wearing a carpal tunnel brace and am looking to take off four to six weeks from everything climbing specific and then ease back into climbing/training. Is this the right move? If so, what can I do to maintain as much muscle mass as possible during this rest period? I also will not be planning on even doing light hang boarding because I fear that will irritate my forearms too much.
A little about me (if helpful): Age: 25 Weight: 155 lb Years climbing:6 Climbing grades: Projecting v8s and low .13s sport
Any advise will be greatly appreciated!
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Post by psathyrella on Dec 1, 2020 7:35:08 GMT -7
There are a lot of online resources for climbing injury management, many of which are quite good, but I think by far the best thing to do is buy Dave Macleod's "Make or Break". Chronic tendonoses like tennis elbow, in particular, are a basically a solved problem and very straightforward (although also very slow) to get rid of. But their management is quite counterintuitive (for instance, rest is usually counterproductive), and he does a really good job of explaining things.
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