How to re-plan Power phase/season with a slight A2 injury?

[siobhans]

So for the few days following my 5th hangboard session my A2 has been achy, sore to touch and uncomfortable to move through ROM, it also hurts to crimp. There's no swelling, there was no pop and I felt no pain during the session, but presumably I’ve done some damage. I don’t think it’s so bad that I need a layoff or to go full rehab mode, but I’m also not sure how to now approach the rest of the season’s training.

I'm due to go on a two week sport trip in 6 weeks’ time, and while I wont be dumb and sacrifice full recovery for short term gains, I equally don’t want to completely bin off training if I don’t have to.


So I’ve cut my last 2 hangboard sessions and have just been doing the SE, but I was meant to be moving into Power next week. I feel like power training is the enemy of weak pulleys, so I’m not sure how to approach things now? Obviously no campusing- but part of me is thinking maybe I could limit boulder on big holds? But I don’t know if that’s just asking for a lapse in concentration that totally blows my finger.

I think by the time endurance comes round I should be able to just climb openhanded so that’ll be fine, but do I give up on the power phase altogether? Just do mileage on big holds?
This is a bummer because power and dynamic movement are something I really need to work on

Not really sure, don’t want to cause further injury but also don’t want to miss out on ways I could still train if any exist.
If any of you have any thoughts any advice would be much appreciated.

[jetjackson]

Based on your profile pic, you look young, so your recovery will be faster than some of us crustier climbers on the forum.

I think big moves to big holds can be just as dangerous, you can have a tendency to catch big hold in a half crimp manner, or you pull into a half crimp when you 'reel in' big holds. Not as bad as big moves on crimps, but not necessarily low risk in my experience.

Part of the challenge with an injury is accepting how bad it is and changing your plans accordingly, and not to make the injury worse. Even after multiple pulley injuries, I still struggle with this. I had a very mild strain on a climb back in July, and it's taken me up until now to get close to full strength again, but I'm still getting some pain during hangboarding. I am 36 though.

If it's sore to touch, that sounds like a medium pulley issue to me. If it's sore when you squeeze it, then that's probably on the milder end.

I made this youtube video on how I 'check in with' my pulleys after an injury to try and get a feel for how I'm progressing on the road to recovery. - www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGHS8GPo81U

If I were you, I'd continue on the hangboarding, but dial back the weight a whole lot - by maybe 50 pounds in the first session, and then progress a bit faster, say 10 pounds per session until you get back to where you were in your 5th hangboard, so that might take 4 workouts. Really get a feel for your pulleys like I noted in that video and cut back if you're not seeing improvement - think of those 'hangboard rehab sessions' as a way to diagnose the severity of your pulley injury. 4-5 HB sessions should take 2 weeks, then if you're feeling good, be very ginger about maybe 2 weeks of power training on big holds. Then 2 weeks of power endurance.

Of course, the caveat here is that you're training for a sport trip - so you can always change your tick-list to accommodate more endurance based routes with less power movement, and then you can shorten power to 3 or 4 Limit Boulder sessions and then jump into power endurance - I'd also be doing plenty of gentle and purposeful ARC in the warm-ups for all workouts to really maintain that strong ARC base. You could probably get away with no power at all if you focus on the right routes - remember J-star could barely even campus when climbing 5.14, and Hazel Findlay struggles with campusing. You coulg also train explosive power in your legs and upper body with box jumps and explosive pullups, that could at least help those muscles be prepared for dynamic movement when you reach your trip and you have had a full 6 weeks for your pulleys to prepare.

I would expect to still have some lingering pain on your trip, depending on how bad it is. Key is to keep checking in with your pulley and the pain, and increasing resistance slowly if it is improving, and decreasing resistance quickly if it gets worse.

[Charlie S]

Solid reply by Mr Jackson.

For my pulley issues, I’ve switched from a traditional hangboard routine to “density hangs” when things get tweaky. I’d also plan a solid deload week before your trip.

[siobhans]

Thanks, I really appreciate the responses.

I think you're right that it would be tempting fate, and the last thing I want is to make things worse.

Thanks for the point about J star and Hazel, that's a really good one! It's also not like I don't have other weaknesses to work on aha (hello more SE).

I'm just going to accept that power gains aren't going to happen, and replace the next 2/3 weeks with rehab hangboarding like you recommend, plus SE geared towards power- and mooore ARC, I'm gonna have such precise footwork by the end of this season   silver linings 

I also love a deload week so that's definitely on the cards.

But yah it'd be good to get into the PE phase feeling almost fine, and like you say I can adjust my route aims to suit the power lack. The plan is Turkey and the routes there seem long rather than too bouldery thankfully.

Also, that video is very good, and the other one you did on using the hangboard & pulley for rehab was handy too. Thanks for all the wisdom!!

[jetjackson]

Thanks, glad you got something out of those videos.

Personally I love ARC, it's like going for a nice walk, but it's climbing.

Turkey! That sounds exciting. Enjoy your trip! Let us know how you get on.