Post by hangboarderjon on Oct 1, 2020 0:04:10 GMT -7
In a recent thread, I mentioned that I have been incorporating occasional high-intensity "max strength" test days in my hangboard sessions.
First, I'll briefly motivate the use of performance tests:
In practically every and any sport that has a purely physical performance aspect, there are regular tests performed to check progress (or to recruit players to teams). Basketball has maximum vertical jump; football has 40 yard sprints. In climbing, finger strength and upper-body pulling strength are crucial (as documented in RPTM). Therefore, in order to be able to track improvement, there is a need for tests of performance at the thing being trained. Tests are good for 1) Evaluating the state of the athlete BEFORE beginning a phase of the training program and 2) evaluating progress during and after the program.
Second, I'll place this into context of the RPTM:
The authors motivate the 7-3 repeaters protocol with research papers referenced in the book, but also with rational argument and their own experimentation applied mostly to sport climbing. I think a case can be made that maybe the "3 sets of 5-7 reps of 7 seconds" protocol is similar to the "3 sets of 8-12 reps" protocol commonly prescribed for traditional weight training: This is a good general guideline for improving strength. Perhaps there are better protocols (which may take years to discover and test), but this one works and has been tested.
The current RPTM is essentially promoting the use of the repeaters protocol as both a test of performance and the method of training for that performance -- simply track your results and keep pushing, and you know you're improving.
Is there anything to be gained by introducing a GRAS (generally recognized as safe) approach to testing finger strength into the program? For instance, at the start and end of the strength phase?
Lastly, I'll wrap up by motivating the NEED for strength testing in any safe training protocol:
While climbing, one is frequently faced with opportunities to push ones' limit, and to do so effectively, one needs a calibration of where the boundary between "at your limits" and "horrible sensation of ligaments popping" is. For climbers who started out while young and foolish, or pros who don't need jobs, this limit was discovered when they crossed the line and popped something.
We need to be able to calibrate our neurology to the strengths we have acquired, so that we can know accurately when something is or is not safely within our capability. I think this internal knowledge can be developed on the hangboard in a safer manner than on a rock. Likewise, older climbers need to know where their limits are because they cannot risk the very long recovery times; their limits can't be discovered accidentally, at least not without serious down time. Lastly, all climbing styles are equally capable of popping something if a climber isn't calibrated.
The repeaters protocol doesn't get you anywhere near to your maximum (which is a good thing) however, how much further IS your maximum, assuming you can complete 7 hangs of 7 seconds at a particular weight? Should the maximum only be counted if it can be held for 7 seconds? 1 second?
Max Strength Testing Protocol Suggestions
After thorough warmup, complete a set of hangs of duration X seconds spaced Y minutes apart, while increasing the weight by 5 - 10 lbs per hang. Stop when you can no longer hang for X seconds with perfect form.
Y should be long enough for complete recovery (2-3 minutes?)
X should be just long enough that, in order to support a load that induces injury, you wouldn't be able to hold on for X seconds.
I used 2 minutes for Y and 7 seconds for X. With this I found that, if I could do 7 hangs of 7-3 repeaters with weight W_0, my max 7 second hang would have a weight W_0 + 30 lbs.
If this kind of extrapolation is possible for all of the different hold types, we could start to get an idea what we are capable of without testing (although it's still necessary). With input from research literature it's possible to also approximately extrapolate to find the weight that would induce injury (failure of supporting structures). I don't have this knowledge, so when I tested more "dangerous" hold types (pockets) I just kept my max to about 20 lbs above repetition weight, although I'd still like to know my maximum.