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Post by Tristan on Sept 26, 2020 9:29:10 GMT -7
Hey folks, I'm a long time lurker on this forum (5+ years haha) and have gone through a few cycles of the program in that time while also dabbling in my own experimentation with training. The last 1.5 years or so I've been battling a particularly nasty finger injury, but I'm finally over it and am starting to be able to climb hard again. I'm looking to do three or four cycles of the program, but when reading the book I was wondering if anyone has made tweaks to the program from additional sport science research or just training experience in general? For example, before my injury I was about a 12+/13- climber (much much weaker now unfortunately) and I found that, for ARC or just aerobic type training I got more out of it if I alternated aerobic workouts between typical ARCing and doing 1min on x 1min rest where the effort was slightly anaerobic and rest off the wall. Not only that but I've messed with a slightly different hangboarding routine just because having so many grip types felt overwhelming to me most sessions (that said I'll probably try to do the traditional HB plan recommended in the book when I start my next cycle-- which will probably be mid-November). Anyway, yeah just wondering And sorry it's taken so long for me to finally participate!
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Post by jetjackson on Nov 25, 2020 18:24:28 GMT -7
Interesting.
Yeah, I don't have an ARC wall at the moment, and only have a Moonboard with lock down. I have been doing the 1 min on, 1 min off is from the Lattice training for Aerobic and at least anecdotally it seems to be working really well. At the start I think it was definitely less Aerobic and more starting to go into that Anaerobic, but with a lot of sessions doing it, it became quite Aerobic and it's become my standard 20 minute warm-up now for hangboarding and power workouts.
With PE workouts, I've also tried, rather than 4x4 or LBC, the workouts in the Lattice app. I'm broadly following the RPTM periodised cycle just throwing in the Lattice PE and Aerobic workout sessions in those phases as opposed to linked bouldering circuits and ARC - this has been driven by having the Moonboard access only through Covid.
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Post by jetjackson on Nov 25, 2020 21:21:44 GMT -7
One other thing that your post made me think about was down-climbing in training. I find that the eccentric contractions with down-climbing really pump me out and the reality is that I don't down-climb outdoors so it's not really useful. There is a possibility that down-climbing assists with injury prevention, and perhaps I'll find out in the next 12 months if I do less of it.
Typically with ARC I would do a lot of down-climbing - however, with the 1 min on, 1 min off, on the Moonboard, I don't down-climb because in 1 minute the most I'll do is a 5 or so traverse moves across the bottom of the board and then 4 or 5 moves to the top - nice and slowly. This means I'm able to Aerobically on a 40 degree board, where if I wad trying to ARC on the board the downclimbing would pump me out quite fast. I suspect that if I did the 10 x 1 on / 1 off, but started at the top of the board and down-climbed, that I would get crazy pumped and unable to finish the reps.
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