hangboarderjon
New Member
Sometimes the hard way is the only way.
Posts: 44
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Post by hangboarderjon on Sept 20, 2020 14:31:54 GMT -7
I just finished my Physics PhD. Definitely has been an adventure! #HardGoals #Obsessed #WhatsNext?
Also, the following question is for Mark Anderson or anyone else who is old and fat (but not necessarily bald, I only lost hair through pulling it out before finishing my thesis, and not natural causes)
Does anyone have any idea how to translate the strength required for Action Direct into a maximum hang on Mark's hangboard?
For instance -- would a one-finger hang off the biggest one-finger pocket be enough, or would it require a one-finger hang off the smallest 1-finger pocket?
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 20, 2020 15:00:55 GMT -7
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hangboarderjon
New Member
Sometimes the hard way is the only way.
Posts: 44
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Post by hangboarderjon on Sept 20, 2020 15:34:59 GMT -7
He fairly boldly announced that he was training for Action Direct - even though at the time I think he had only climbed a 14a or 14b. It seemed to be that people were rolling their eyes at him. He has built all these replicas to be able to train - you could reach out to him about it. For all the trash talk against him, 5 years later or so, he is now climbing 8c+ and still working Action Directe. Thanks for reminding me that Action Direct is 14d. For some reason in my head I had it as a 14a...also thanks for the links.
This is a multi-decade, rather than multi-year, kind of long-term goal for me. Still, it's nice to maintain the optimistic view that sticking to training and working at it can lead to amazing results (hence posting this in the psyche section). I'm still excited to hear Mark's perspective on this since he's the closest example for me to emulate at achieving this level of performance.
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hangboarderjon
New Member
Sometimes the hard way is the only way.
Posts: 44
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Post by hangboarderjon on Sept 20, 2020 15:51:42 GMT -7
Luzan Matyas is doing some intense training. I haven't yet found routes/problems that get me motivated to that level, but that will be one of my next goals.
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Post by jetjackson on Sept 20, 2020 18:43:16 GMT -7
Yeah, perhaps others might offer an opinion.
I know Ben Cossey, and Australian climber has put a fair amount of work into it without luck, and he can do a pinky front-lever and has climbed a fair few 5.14c's. I'm not sure there is a translation on max strength required for it. I mean, you should email Luzan and ask what his mono max hang is - and perhaps that's a starting base for a level that's insufficient. But then, maybe it's not - perhaps he's falling off for other reasons.
I'm all for multi-year goals. In 2015 I set the goal to climb 5.13b by age 35 - I was climbing 5.11a at the time and I thought that if I could climb 5.13b - that would be a lifetime achievement. I got close, 5.13a by my 35th Birthday. In the process of working towards that, the scope of what I thought was possible for me has grown and now I'm thinking life routes are things like To Bolt, Peace and other super retro classics from the 80s.
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hangboarderjon
New Member
Sometimes the hard way is the only way.
Posts: 44
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Post by hangboarderjon on Oct 2, 2020 11:16:34 GMT -7
Yeah, perhaps others might offer an opinion. I know Ben Cossey, and Australian climber has put a fair amount of work into it without luck, and he can do a pinky front-lever and has climbed a fair few 5.14c's. I'm not sure there is a translation on max strength required for it. I mean, you should email Luzan and ask what his mono max hang is - and perhaps that's a starting base for a level that's insufficient. But then, maybe it's not - perhaps he's falling off for other reasons. I'm all for multi-year goals. In 2015 I set the goal to climb 5.13b by age 35 - I was climbing 5.11a at the time and I thought that if I could climb 5.13b - that would be a lifetime achievement. I got close, 5.13a by my 35th Birthday. In the process of working towards that, the scope of what I thought was possible for me has grown and now I'm thinking life routes are things like To Bolt, Peace and other super retro classics from the 80s. For me, I think a reasonable life goal is to get to V10 bouldering and 5.13 sport. Both would be far beyond what I ever thought was possible. |
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