Post by swiftmamba24 on Jul 26, 2020 19:53:37 GMT -7
Hello!
I'm a 29 yo male and have been climbing for about 7 years now - max sport redpoint of 12c and max bouldering grade of V8 roughly 3 years ago. Since that time (Now 12a/V5), I've been trying to climb consistently but have had a number of injuries that have set me back. In the last 3.5 months, I've decided to commit more to training and logging all of my climbs and taking a strategic approach to improving my strength as I've always seemed to accumulate finger injuries if I hang on ledges smaller than 18mm.
On April 10, 2020 I started hangboarding again after taking a month of doing nothing due to a neck injury and progressed from hardly able to hang on the largest ledges of my hangboard to doing 1 arm, 10s hangs, -35lbs on May 19. Since this date, my strength has steadily declined as I burned out and took 2 weeks with minimal climbing from June 18-July 3. On July 3, I started training power on the 18mm instead of max hangs which has helped my sport climbing a lot. Right now, I've redpoint a number of 12a which generally take a session or 2 and can send a good amount of V5s that I try.
However, as I hangboard again today, 1 arm hangs on 18mm at -45lbs now feel incredibly difficult again, which shows I'm losing strength, but my sport climbing seems to be improving. I started doing some hangs on the 12mm with -20lbs offset and seemed to have tweaked my finger again which is very frustrating. I feel like I've consistently been taking 2-3 days rest in between which seems like it should be plenty, and whenever I decrease that rest time, my performance seems to decrease over time.
Does anybody have any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong? Thanks!!!!!!
Here's a log of my sessions: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1z_3MNZaERF2nC0ZhTybCC8RfRKCap82a1C5ZKYNOuUs/edit?usp=sharing I have more detailed in hand. My hangboard sessions normally consist of:
*5 min rest in between
Should also note, diet has been good, started taking more protein, veggie and collagen supplements regularly as well.
I'm a 29 yo male and have been climbing for about 7 years now - max sport redpoint of 12c and max bouldering grade of V8 roughly 3 years ago. Since that time (Now 12a/V5), I've been trying to climb consistently but have had a number of injuries that have set me back. In the last 3.5 months, I've decided to commit more to training and logging all of my climbs and taking a strategic approach to improving my strength as I've always seemed to accumulate finger injuries if I hang on ledges smaller than 18mm.
On April 10, 2020 I started hangboarding again after taking a month of doing nothing due to a neck injury and progressed from hardly able to hang on the largest ledges of my hangboard to doing 1 arm, 10s hangs, -35lbs on May 19. Since this date, my strength has steadily declined as I burned out and took 2 weeks with minimal climbing from June 18-July 3. On July 3, I started training power on the 18mm instead of max hangs which has helped my sport climbing a lot. Right now, I've redpoint a number of 12a which generally take a session or 2 and can send a good amount of V5s that I try.
However, as I hangboard again today, 1 arm hangs on 18mm at -45lbs now feel incredibly difficult again, which shows I'm losing strength, but my sport climbing seems to be improving. I started doing some hangs on the 12mm with -20lbs offset and seemed to have tweaked my finger again which is very frustrating. I feel like I've consistently been taking 2-3 days rest in between which seems like it should be plenty, and whenever I decrease that rest time, my performance seems to decrease over time.
Does anybody have any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong? Thanks!!!!!!
Here's a log of my sessions: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1z_3MNZaERF2nC0ZhTybCC8RfRKCap82a1C5ZKYNOuUs/edit?usp=sharing I have more detailed in hand. My hangboard sessions normally consist of:
*5 min rest in between
- Warmup: L1 flat ledge - 5 hangs - 30s on/10s off
- Warmup: L1 flat ledge - 5 hangs - 30s on/10s off
- L2 (18mm) - 10 hangs - 8s on/5s off
- L2 (18mm) - 10 hangs - 8s on/5s off
- L2 - 6 hangs each arm - 1 arm - minus 40lbs 18 mm - 10s on/ 2min off
- L2 - 6 hangs each arm - 1 arm - minus 40lbs 18 mm
- L2 - Pull ups - 2 min rest - 5 hangs
- L2 - Pull ups - 2 min rest - 5 hangs
- S1' (slopers) - 5 hangs - 30s on 10s off
- S1' (slopers) - 5 hangs - 30s on 10s off
- W1 (standard Pinch using 2x4 wood with weight hanging) - 5 hangs each arm - 10s on 30s off - 40 lbs
- W2 (wide Pinch) - 5 hangs each arm - 10s on 30s off - 20 lbs
Should also note, diet has been good, started taking more protein, veggie and collagen supplements regularly as well.