After spraining my knee and ankle in a lead fall a couple weeks ago, I've started hangboarding to get stronger while I can't climb. I had been doing 369 ladders, but have a pulley set up now, and want to do a repeater workout. I was looking at the beginner hangboard workout here, which calls for 8-10 different grips, but I only have three edges on my hangboard setup, a 38mm incut jug, a 20mm edge, and 15mm edge. I suppose I can still train all pocket-type grips by just removing fingers, and I really just won't be able to train pinches or slopers. I climb at the RRG, NRG, and a couple local crags, and most of the holds I use are crimps, edges, and jugs anyway. I climb around 10+. Max redpoint was 11a (3 tries), max onsight: 10c. M26, 6'0", 170 lbs, started climbing 6-7 years ago, but only off and on a few months at a time until the past year.
I was thinking of doing something like:
1. Warm-up set on jug
2. 2 sets half crimp on 20mm
3. 1 set open hand on 20mm
4. 1 set open hand on jug
However, this is half the volume of the program. Should I add more sets to those grips, or maybe add IMR and MR in the mix? I have to take a LOT of weight off the pulley to do the repeaters on the 20mm. Doing 6 sets 10s on 5s off was difficult with -70lbs, I was unable to do finish second set at that weight when I tried. I can only hang bodyweight off the 20mm for a couple seconds when fresh
What would you suggest as a hangboard protocol with this setup?
Post by jetjackson on Jun 23, 2020 19:49:13 GMT -7
Consider regular hangboarding cycles as an investment in your climbing for this year, but also years from now.
TBH, if you are pulling 70 pounds off for a 20mm edge, you probably could just do with a couple of simple cycles like what you have described, until you are bodyweight on the 20mm edge. Then look at removing fingers after that.
Given that it's fairly low weight and you are not doing that much volume. Probably wouldn't hurt to do 2 sets of each of those above-mentioned grips.
If you are consistently climbing, that should translate into more finger strength than you currently have. You will probably find that you are doing BW repeaters on the 20mm edge fairly quickly after a hangboard cycle, and you will be able to up the intensity on the next cycle.