Post by krisha on Jun 12, 2020 2:16:56 GMT -7
Since I've rekindled my obsession for climbing a couple months ago, I've also gone through some injuries of course. Too much psyche + not 20 anymore + not going through antagonist/core/whatnut prevention training = injury. classic.
First came what I though was lateral epicondylitis, but it seemed in strange places (burning sensation in the brachioradialis). PT figured it may had to do with tense muscles, did some dry needling, did only go away for a little. Doing the classic elbow training helped, it has gone... but was immediately replaced with what I thought was medial epicondylitis... I religiously did all the recommended training, but it didn't seem to get better, actually more went the other way.
What I thought was a little odd that I had the symptoms in the right place (the boney part on the inner elbow), but There wasn't any dull pain after training/climbing when everything cooled down. The opposite happened. No pain really UNTIL I had climbed already a couple of routes and particularly when doing harder lockoffs. Then the pain would suddenly sharply increase, particularly when locking off and getting pumped. In every article a typical symptom is that it wouldn't hurt when warmed up, but only to come when everything was cooled off.
So I went to see another PT, who's more specialized on climbing specific injuries. When checking out my forearms, she remarked that a muscle (some flexor?) in my forearm had a too high muscle tone and that could create the pain. Not medial epicondylitis YET, since this could develop into it. Dryneedling, massaging and the recommendations to tone down the intensity of climbing/training for another couple of weeks and also decrease the weight when doing the antagonist training for my elbows. Basically not doing any hypertrophy for now, just maintain the current fitness level, trigger the muscle three times a week, daily easier massaging.
Then I also talked to a trainer of the Swiss climbing team (I live in Interlaken). He said this can be quite common. His recommendation was doing lap climbing (he said 600 moves) on very easy terrain (much easier than arc'ing even) to get blood flowing through those muscles and NOT get pumped.
Lot of blabla, sorry. Anyone had maybe a similar story and some other recommendations or experiences?
First came what I though was lateral epicondylitis, but it seemed in strange places (burning sensation in the brachioradialis). PT figured it may had to do with tense muscles, did some dry needling, did only go away for a little. Doing the classic elbow training helped, it has gone... but was immediately replaced with what I thought was medial epicondylitis... I religiously did all the recommended training, but it didn't seem to get better, actually more went the other way.
What I thought was a little odd that I had the symptoms in the right place (the boney part on the inner elbow), but There wasn't any dull pain after training/climbing when everything cooled down. The opposite happened. No pain really UNTIL I had climbed already a couple of routes and particularly when doing harder lockoffs. Then the pain would suddenly sharply increase, particularly when locking off and getting pumped. In every article a typical symptom is that it wouldn't hurt when warmed up, but only to come when everything was cooled off.
So I went to see another PT, who's more specialized on climbing specific injuries. When checking out my forearms, she remarked that a muscle (some flexor?) in my forearm had a too high muscle tone and that could create the pain. Not medial epicondylitis YET, since this could develop into it. Dryneedling, massaging and the recommendations to tone down the intensity of climbing/training for another couple of weeks and also decrease the weight when doing the antagonist training for my elbows. Basically not doing any hypertrophy for now, just maintain the current fitness level, trigger the muscle three times a week, daily easier massaging.
Then I also talked to a trainer of the Swiss climbing team (I live in Interlaken). He said this can be quite common. His recommendation was doing lap climbing (he said 600 moves) on very easy terrain (much easier than arc'ing even) to get blood flowing through those muscles and NOT get pumped.
Lot of blabla, sorry. Anyone had maybe a similar story and some other recommendations or experiences?
