One finger at a time training

[hangboarderjon]

I recently saw a youtube video where Adam Ondra interviews the one-finger pinky pullup record holder:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALTPDRckryY

Setting aside the novelty factor, I am interested in the efficacy of training each individual finger separately. In the RP bible, the training philosophy is based on making the workouts most relevant to the hand positions and static hold durations that most closely simulate climbing. Part if this philosophy is based on using holds that train the joint angles relevant to climbing.

Clearly this protocol is effective, and I'm not denying that, however I am curious if training each finger individually (as well as specfic joint angles for each finger) would also be effective?

One reason I make this case is that real rock has such variety in texture and configuration that it is beneficial to train strength that is maximally adaptable. One instance in which this philosophy applies is pinky/ring finger strength -- the RP protocol neglects pinky strength, but there are occasions (for instance thin cracks) in which your thinnest finger needs to support the most load. This motivates one to specifically train pinky finger strength.

Mark? What do you think about the one-finger training the guy in the interview does?

[Charlie S]

I injured a pulley a few months ago and pestered one of my knowledgeable friends about recovery. I specifically asked about single finger training to address the single finger. She said that the fingers all work together as a unit, so single-finger training, in general, is not a beneficial way to train.

Now, I'd caveat that with if your project has pockets and/or monos, it would be advantageous to train those grips, especially if they're the crux of your project.

Single finger training can also be tweaky on a conventional hangboard on anything other than the middle finger. I'd suggest going into a "no-hang" type hangboard (Tension Block) if you HAVE to do single finger training.