You know, because I didn't have enough charts in Excel already...
First is the "redpoint pyramid" which really has no relation to any shape whatsoever. Also, I'm apparently afraid of the rating "5.12d". Maybe I need another European trip where "7c" is abundant:
The next plot looks at how many attempts go into the redpoints (flash and OS also included):
This latter chart includes all years, starting at 5.10a and up (ignored data below 5.10a). The chart could be further refined by only looking back at the last 3 years. My engineering sense tells me there's a better fit than polynomial, but the "exponential" fit did not reflect the amount of work required for 5.12b and up. This is largely due to the "weighting" of the chart at send=1 for many routes under 5.11c.
Note: for plotting purposes, a=+0, b=+0.25, c=+0.5, and d=+0.75.
Wondering what others' plots look like and if there is a trend or absolutely none at all?
Post by jetjackson on May 26, 2020 21:51:43 GMT -7
I can see how 5.11d, 5.12d and 5.13d climbs would struggle to get more than a couple of stars in a guidebook, and thus in project shopping you might overlook them. Certainly I skipped 12d, or 27 in Australia, simply because there were no easily accessible 27s that I was inspired by.
Post by jetjackson on May 29, 2020 17:44:05 GMT -7
Yeah all of those are difficult to work. Touchstone had a few things - close to car, close to home (2.5 hrs drive - the shortest distance to any Gramps crag) and the main crux was the first 10m, so working it was really easy and low commitment. Also a 3 star route. This strategy was really based on your write-up Mark on Shadowboxing, and the logic behind choosing it as a 9a project.
Interestingly, I did a podcast last night with the guys from thecrag and we were looking at all the data they have for various insights on Australian climbing and climbers. We went through the most iconic route at each grade from 10 to 30, so 5.2ish to 5.13c. There is a standout classic - based on number of ascents and the ratings given - at each grade, except for grade 27 (12d). There is no classic standout in all of Australia at that grade.
Crazy info coming in that podcast by the way, the method they use for grade conversion across countries - it's fascinating stuff. Will post up when I'm done on the edit.
Last Edit: May 29, 2020 20:48:35 GMT -7 by jetjackson