Complete route simulation hangboard workout?

[hangboarderjon]

Has anyone experimented with making up hangboard workouts that move-for-move simulate an entire route?

Mark, Mike?

Since I don't have a specific project picked out but I want to develop general-use skills and strength, I was thinking it would be fun to do something like the following that includes most of the skills and strengths needed to complete a route.

1 set consists of 8 rounds of:

a) 7 second hang
b) pull into full lock off, 3 seconds
c) 3 pullups (all on same starting hold)
d) 3 chair step up per leg
e) Clip a rope, tied into harness, into draw

Repeat for 8 rounds, accounting for 8 different hand and draw clipping positions for the mock lead clips, and alternate holds and body positions (for instance, simulate overhang with a chair under the feet).

Do 2 sets, plus the following, to compose a single pitch:
10 calf raises per foot
While standing on toes, "build an anchor" on the hangboard. After building the anchor and clipping in, haul the rope up to simulate bringing up the second. One could also clip a personal anchoring system into a support, and simulate a hanging belay.

[MarkAnderson]

I could see this having entertainment value but I’m skeptical of its training value. I’m pretty sure it’s not the best way to train finger strength. It might burn some calories.

Also, when building anchors from a strenuous stance, I recommend you put in one bomber piece, clip into it, then build the rest of the anchor.

[MarkAnderson]

Oh ya, no never done that. It’s an interesting idea that could have a PE application for someone with no access to a climbing wall in a “not ideal but better than nothing” kinda way.

[hangboarderjon]

Haha thanks for the tip on placing a bomber piece first, although I think on my hangboard setup the fixed anchors are trustworthy