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Post by siobhans on May 1, 2020 12:25:31 GMT -7
So I've seen it said in a few places, and the RCTM, that watching videos of elite climbers can contribute to learning technique. Soo now that there's so much sitting around watching climbing videos time, I'm wondering- is there a way to make this most fruitful? I assume watching analytically, rather than passively, is the first step, but does anyone have any suggestions on what to focus on? (or does it not stand if you can't go out and practice what you see?  ) |
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Post by MarkAnderson on May 1, 2020 15:24:28 GMT -7
Good question.
The most effective method would be to watch video of “experts” climbing routes that you are familiar with, and then comparing your technique to the experts’ technique, specifically looking for places you could have used a different technique to make a sequence easier. Ideally you would know the route well enough to remember every move or have good video of yourself climbing the route.
Another option is to just watch some experts and look for things that differ from your climbing.
Another thing to keep in mind is not everyone who is able to climb hard routes has good technique, so try to find climbers with good technique to use as examples.
Anyway, you are correct that it will be difficult to actually improve your own technique without practice. But watching others can help you figure out what good technique is, so that you are ready to start practicing it once you get back to climbing. And there are surely drills you can do without access to climbing, like practicing placing your toes precisely on various objects, high stepping onto a table, etc.
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Post by RobF on May 1, 2020 17:57:24 GMT -7
I sometimes internally visualise myself being somebody else when climbing. This might be to climb like a Frenchman when on some thin vertical runout thing (slow, static, max flexibility). Other times it might be to climb like Sharma or Ondra (fast paced, punchy). Even to 'dance' in time with music at the wall is good to improve relaxed movement / over utilisation of unnessary muscles.
I also like watching how other animals climb in nature and see what this could bring to my climbing. The other day I spent 30 min watching 2 squirrels playing and running up and down a tree trunk with such ease. They then jumped between branches about 30 meters up without any fear whatsoever. Amazing.
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Post by sbleazard on May 2, 2020 20:59:48 GMT -7
Power Company Climbing youtube channel has some good stuff on technique.
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Post by jetjackson on May 3, 2020 5:24:36 GMT -7
The most effective method would be to watch video of “experts” climbing routes that you are familiar with, and then comparing your technique to the experts’ technique, specifically looking for places you could have used a different technique to make a sequence easier. A really practical way to do this is with the moonboard, as it's pretty accessible, and you can watch different climbers working on the same problem. |
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Post by siobhans on May 3, 2020 8:56:45 GMT -7
The most effective method would be to watch video of “experts” climbing routes that you are familiar with, and then comparing your technique to the experts’ technique, specifically looking for places you could have used a different technique to make a sequence easier. A really practical way to do this is with the moonboard, as it's pretty accessible, and you can watch different climbers working on the same problem. That's such a good point! So many videos on moonboard problems. Definitely will bear that in mind for when the world reopens |
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Post by jetjackson on May 3, 2020 15:41:15 GMT -7
The only downside to it is that it's a single style. You're not getting the nuances of technique that you will get on slab/vertical terrain.
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