Shoulder pain / grips too wide during hang?

[hangboarderjon]

I just started doing hangboard sessions (thanks to getting forced into my apartment all day, every day a month ago). I'm slowly building up the number of sets per workout (one new hold per session) and am following the training manual's advice of two days rest after each session. On workout number 4 two days ago, I was left with some sharp shoulder pain that is quickly fading.

The difference in workout 4 from workout 3 was that I included some test hangs off the slopers. Unlike the pinches, I can hang pretty long with full bodyweight on the slopers. At the same time, the slopers required me to hang with my hands further apart than the jugs or crimps I'm using.

My conclusion is that my RPTC is setup too wide, and I didn't realize it until the slopers caused shoulder pain. After getting a rough measurement of my shoulder width and the width between the boards, it seems the inside limit of the boards are about as wide as my shoulders (implying ALL of the holds are wider than shoulder width).

Is this a pretty clearcut solution to the shoulder pain -- Grips too wide therefore shoulder pain?

[MarkAnderson]

It's definitely caused by poor hang posture. That could be due to poor spacing, or could just be posture. If your shoulders are tense and engaged while hanging and you still feel pain, then its probably the width.

[hangboarderjon]

Definitely keeping my shoulders engaged, however that is more difficult with a wider hand position.

I took down the board and its' mount and am re-mounting it with narrower spacing.

I think I was more worried about narrow spacing than wide spacing, but based on the reports people posted of as little as 4" of space betweeen the boards I'm re-evaluating. I decided on my new separation distance by holding my arms parallel in a pushup position on top of the middles of the boards. 4 - 5 inches between the inner boundaries seems about right.

[MarkAnderson]

Too narrow can definitely be an issue for wrists, though not so much for shoulders.

[hangboarderjon]

In the past, while fiddling around with hangboard grip positions (I had a Metolius Simulator long ago) I found that narrow grip hangs are easier to accommodate by getting behind the board (physically under a doorway) and palms towards face position (chinup position instead of pullup position).

Thoughts?

This would develop strength for underclings, but I'm not sure if it is injury-provoking. In my past experience I never had problems, however chinups aggravate my elbows and shoulders more than pullups do.

[MarkAnderson]

Interesting idea. I imagine it would be hard on your elbows once the load gets significant. Maybe hard on the shoulders and wrists too.

[RobF]

Lats & pecs are strong internal rotators of the shoulder. The external rotators of the shoulder are tiny in comparison, and need work to keep up.

Are pecs tight? / exaggerated thoracic spine curve? Narrrow grip would deactivate pecs.

As an action plan before each session I would try: foam roll / stretches to thoracic spine, lats & pecs stretches (+ foam roll), external shoulder rotator strengthening.

I also like firing up gluteals when hangboarding or doing pull-ups. This sets up pelvic neutral better which then provides a better base for lats to fire upon. Is easily done with a tight loop of theraband around knees- pull knees away from each other as you do your hangs or pull-ups. Will quickly feel it in lateral hip region.

[hangboarderjon]

Apr 30, 2020 10:25:27 GMT -7 RobF said:

Lats & pecs are strong internal rotators of the shoulder. The external rotators of the shoulder are tiny in comparison, and need work to keep up.

Are pecs tight? / exaggerated thoracic spine curve? Narrrow grip would deactivate pecs.

As an action plan before each session I would try: foam roll / stretches to thoracic spine, lats & pecs stretches (+ foam roll), external shoulder rotator strengthening.

I also like firing up gluteals when hangboarding or doing pull-ups. This sets up pelvic neutral better which then provides a better base for lats to fire upon. Is easily done with a tight loop of theraband around knees- pull knees away from each other as you do your hangs or pull-ups. Will quickly feel it in lateral hip region.

 Thanks Rob!

Are you suggesting narrow group will be beneficial to reducing shoulder pain?

I already do external shoulder rotator strengthening (band rotator cuff external rotation, also therabar wrist rolls) before each hangboard session. I hadn't considered the foam rolling, and haven't been emphasizing stretching very much.

Thanks also for the tip on engaging glutes during hangs. I'm sure this will help prevent aggravation of my lower back, in addition to other benefits.

[RobF]

Give it a go- if wide aggravates then avoid at present. You need to minimise any things that worsen and maximise things that improve things.

Break in the wide grips with a very slow progressive regime. 1 rep per workout, 2, 3 etc etc etc.

I tend to have the main body of my hangboard workout fairly standard, but then each session have a few singles with max rest playing about on some new things I am trying to break in to train on for the future (something like small holds, 2 finger things or split holds).

Also consider body angle - are you plumb vertical or tilted? For pull-ups it is possible to pull with more of a lat or of a bicep emphasis dependent on what is strongest / most dominant. Do you feel like your elbow is pulling towards your hips (lats) or your shoulders towards your wrists (biceps)?

For spine positioning imagine a torch glued to your sternum (breast bone). Where is this torch shining on the wall? Keep the torch shining straight ahead or slightly up, not letting it sink down towards the floor.

The banded external rotations should be done both by your side and also in a 90/90 position away from your body. Upper arm 90 degrees outwards of body with elbow at 90 degrees. For additional challenge do sitting or laying on a gymball with other end of band tied onto something appropriately.

[hangboarderjon]

May 1, 2020 17:40:03 GMT -7 RobF said:

Give it a go- if wide aggravates then avoid at present. You need to minimise any things that worsen and maximise things that improve things.

Break in the wide grips with a very slow progressive regime. 1 rep per workout, 2, 3 etc etc etc.

I tend to have the main body of my hangboard workout fairly standard, but then each session have a few singles with max rest playing about on some new things I am trying to break in to train on for the future (something like small holds, 2 finger things or split holds).

Also consider body angle - are you plumb vertical or tilted? For pull-ups it is possible to pull with more of a lat or of a bicep emphasis dependent on what is strongest / most dominant. Do you feel like your elbow is pulling towards your hips (lats) or your shoulders towards your wrists (biceps)?

For spine positioning imagine a torch glued to your sternum (breast bone). Where is this torch shining on the wall? Keep the torch shining straight ahead or slightly up, not letting it sink down towards the floor.

The banded external rotations should be done both by your side and also in a 90/90 position away from your body. Upper arm 90 degrees outwards of body with elbow at 90 degrees. For additional challenge do sitting or laying on a gymball with other end of band tied onto something appropriately.

Could you please point me towards a video showing what you are describing for the banded external rotations?

Also, as an update to the original topic of this thread, I re-mounted my boards closer together and my shoulders have felt better on the last two workouts.

Ordinarily, a wide grip wouldn't be too much cause for concern, but when combined with a more challenging hold (slopers) my form was off and caused a minor strain in my shoulder. I could have gotten away with this kind of thing for a single hang, but the repeater style of workout doesn't leave space for it.

[RobF]

Something like this...

youtu.be/CUvCzgxxPpg

If your elbow is all over the place then reduce degrees of freedom by laying on the floor and same exercise connecting a band between your foot and your hand.

[hangboarderjon]

May 4, 2020 10:10:42 GMT -7 RobF said:

Something like this...

youtu.be/CUvCzgxxPpg

If your elbow is all over the place then reduce degrees of freedom by laying on the floor and same exercise connecting a band between your foot and your hand.

Cool, thanks for the ideas.

It turns out I've been doing these already, using light weights and holding a bent-over posture. I also do I/Y/T's and Superman holds for my posterior chain (also works shoulders).

Have you tried "Facepulls" before?