Best hang boarding protocol for me.

[earthtreker]

I have read a lot of info in the book, but still wondering what the best for me is.  I am into weight lifting quite a bit, and climb indoors at an Earth Treks once a week on average (closed now).  I've been climbing for about a year and half.

 I have done 2 of the beginner hang board schedules and improved both times with the amount of weight removed.  I am now on my 3rd and am able to do several grips with no weight removed, or about 10 pounds removed for MRP 3 finger pocket.  MR 2F pockets, and pinches are around 30 pounds removed.  

When climbing, I never really run out of strength with other body parts, just my hands/forearms get pumped up.  I can do the hard moves, but my fingers run out of endurance on harder routes once I get 2/3 the way up.  Should I go to the intermediate hang board protocol?  Just wanted to make sure the shorter hang times of 7 seconds versus 10 can help with my main weakness somehow.

[earthtreker]

Any ideas anyone?

[Charlie S]

I'd stick with your current hangboard routine for the time being. Finish the season. You'll learn a lot more after 8 sessions instead of just 3. For me, I switch grips when I get to +50lbs.

The cry for endurance is the perpetual wail of the climber. It's not uncommon to get the endurance "fitness" on your project. I wouldn't worry about it. By increasing strength, you inadvertently increase endurance (there is a chart that explains this early in the RCTM).

7 second hangs are pretty common. One could make the argument for 5 second hangs. Tyler Nelson has been doing research and posting papers showing that your max force generation happens about 1-2 seconds into a contraction. So 7s gives you 1-2s to "settle" into the hold, 1-2s for force exertion, and that leaves a couple seconds that we can chalk up to targeting the tendons. I think by time you move to 10 seconds, you've gone well over max force generation and you end up taking more weight off just to simply endure.

[jetjackson]

Agree with Charlie, stick with it. I make grips harder, less fingers, smaller edges, when I get anywhere from 50-80 pounds added. Partially because I think my shoulder appreciate, and also because I just don't own that many weight plates

Get at least this first cycle under your belt and then have a crack at the intermediate.