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Post by sbleazard on Mar 30, 2020 8:35:14 GMT -7
Try making some of your own holds and maybe try Boulder Challenge. I think it would be cheaper than Stokt. Get lots of jugs for it though if it's going to be 40 degrees. ARCing will be impossible. I can barely get by on a 25-degree wall with a vertical wall next to it. Does this forum have a thread where you can show off your woody or should I start one?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 30, 2020 9:06:34 GMT -7
Mark, have you spent much time on the Moonboard? I’ve used a Moonboard, but very little. Too big moves to too big holds on too steep a wall isn’t really my thing, haha.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 30, 2020 9:08:01 GMT -7
Does this forum have a thread where you can show off your woody...? Yes
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 30, 2020 9:16:06 GMT -7
Trango isn’t sufficiently interested at the moment. I think they realize that pursuing increasingly smaller niche markets of increasingly more hard core climbers is a losing proposition. We’ve had a friendly back and forth for years now about the wisdom of producing hangboards specifically designed to meet the needs of two single-minded 5.14+ climbers.
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Post by Charlie S on Mar 30, 2020 12:09:40 GMT -7
Trango isn’t sufficiently interested at the moment. I think they realize that pursuing increasingly smaller niche markets of increasingly more hard core climbers is a losing proposition. We’ve had a friendly back and forth for years now about the wisdom of producing hangboards specifically designed to meet the needs of two single-minded 5.14+ climbers. Well, thanks for pestering them to see. I don't see this particular idea as an "increasingly smaller niche market," however, as it would attempt to significantly expand the home user base.
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Post by jetjackson on Mar 30, 2020 15:55:39 GMT -7
App programmer here Some thoughts: LED lighting is quite important? 40deg is a f..in hurdle. I like kilter for both reasons - working the angle toward a problem (never tried, none in range), perfect visibility. The market is quite saturated with Moonboard derivates.. Tension has different sizes. www.timetoclimb.com/climbing/tension-kilter-boards-moonboard-competition/This is a valid point. I have just checked out the kilter site and they have a 7 foot by 10 foot board for home users now. I've used the Tension board and I think their board is horrible. They seem more interested in carving holds that look good as opposed to them being practical to climb on or representing outdoor holds. Their incut jugs are more like hard edged handles for kitchen drawers that are quite awful to catch on a dyno. They had the gimmick of ' training the mirror of each problem, which the Moonboard quickly replicated. I thought the whole element was overrated - there are so many problems on the moonboard you almost never have to repeat the same problem - the possibility of ending up with an imbalance because of training on it is very low IMO.
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Post by Charlie S on Mar 30, 2020 17:34:44 GMT -7
Interesting on the Kilter board size. Unfortunately, I can't find prices anywhere. I guess that's kind of like the fine restaurants' menus? If you have to ask the price...
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jingo
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by jingo on Mar 31, 2020 2:12:56 GMT -7
What do you guys think of necessity of LED lighting?
I come from a background of a gym with grade-color non-sprayed problems. I already am confused by non-grade-color problems (with a sticky for grade). Thus remembering a problem in a sea of similar looking holds is quite a challenge for me (annoyingly distractive). Is it different, if you are used to taped routes, or memorizing self-defined spraywall problems?
I think this homewall "niche" will stand for 1-2 corona years, and people might think differently about going to a gym after that. But who can really tell..
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 1, 2020 15:52:44 GMT -7
I think the gym has a lot of other appeals, particularly the modern gyms. I think that home walls may reduce the hardcore climbers frequency of going to the gym, but probably not the majority. I mean 80 percent of gym climbers probably are not climbing now, and are trying other sports. I think the actual risk here is that those people will move onto different sports and activities and won't return to climbing.
Our new climbing gym though is fantastic. It's huge, the setting is great, they have good coffee and a really great childrens play area. Even with building my own moonboard at home, I'll still go to the gym.
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 26, 2020 17:26:56 GMT -7
Well, perhaps Ben Moon reads this forum. Yesterday on Instagram he announced a Moonboard Mini.
Looks like he's going with a 40 degree 2400mm travel, 150mm kicker, for roughly 6.5 feet in height. I thought a little low.
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 27, 2020 13:44:12 GMT -7
Well that would certainly be the shortest of the "mini" boards out. I'd bet that 6.5' falls into place for 2 4x8 panels at 40 degrees. If it has an adjustable angle setup, then 20 degrees would fit in most houses.
Of all systems holds, Moon holds are still the most affordable.
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Post by climber511 on Apr 28, 2020 5:57:27 GMT -7
I understand the reasoning behind a 40 degree training wall but how many actual 40 degree climbs do you all do?
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 28, 2020 7:42:04 GMT -7
It's all about application. For ARC and power-endurance I use my 15 degree wall exclusively. For power, it's the Moonboard.
Indoor climbing holds and footholds are generally larger and better than holds found outside. By making the wall steeper, you force harder moves on the larger holds, and many times that also "compresses" the moves to fit into a smaller space.
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