The editor of said magazine basically said "you can't trust any of these old guys, they're all full of shit".
That has (largely) been my experience, haha. There are a few exceptions. Speaking of Alan Watts, based on the (extensive) reading I've done, it appears he was very honest and humble. Likely to his own detriment. I think he witnessed so many strong foreigners coming through Smith that he had an above average appreciation for what "hard" really meant, and as a result that made him very humble.
Another piece of this, which your editor ironically seems to have left out, is that the climbing media is at least half responsible for the proliferation of "lies." They regularly omitted details and puffed shit up in order to make the climbing news more sensational.
FA of that was Sharma's buddy. I know Sharma repeated it. God, I forgot his name but he always posts pictures of his pants around his ankles on his Instagram. I mean it has to be a 14. I'm guessing 14c?
Date began RCTM: Oct 2018 Starting level: 10+, v3 (outdoor) Current level : 11b, v3 (outdoor) Currently in suspended Cycle 3(hangboard maintenance during covid)
Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 24, 2020 7:30:49 GMT -7
No love for Slinkin Leopard? Here’s a hint, it’s at the same crag as another route up thread, and it’s on the same wall as Lord of the Rings, (.which you can also guess). Incidentally, Lord of the Rings was FAd by a (wanna be) rival of the FA of the same up thread route...
Guess the FA or grade of either route and you’re a winner!
Post by jetjackson on Mar 24, 2020 18:04:42 GMT -7
Slinkin Leopard - 28 (13a), Arapiles. FA Geoff Wiegand. I've only heard that he stole it from Lincoln Shepard, of Shepard family climbing fame, and so called it Slinkin Leopard. Wiegand lives in Salt Lake city now. I'm hoping to interview him. I think he rides mountain bikes now. Mark - you might have heard a different story?
As for The Ring Route. Has consolidated at 31 (13d), I can't remember the Euro guys name that got the FA, but Louis something? Ah, I can't remember without checking. Kim Carrigan worked it for ages and called it The Ring Route before sending it. The Euro guy I think swung through when Louise Shepard, Carrigan's GF in the 80s held an international climbing meet up.
LOTR is the route that you see the picture of The Verm in a pair of thongs and a stubbie just hanging off - he's actually clipped in by a lanyard to the ring out of sight.