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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 21, 2020 19:57:30 GMT -7
Let’s go with something across the pond: La Rose et le Vampire
(so famous it has a move named after it)
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Post by cozisco on Mar 21, 2020 20:10:46 GMT -7
8b, Antoine Le Menestrel, Buoux.
If you haven't seen it, Seb Bouin's vintage rock tour is a cool idea. He heads to Buoux to climb classics with both Ben Moon and Antoine Le Menestrel.
Next up: Crack of the Eighties.
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Post by sbleazard on Mar 21, 2020 20:38:52 GMT -7
That's the one! Don't neglect the X!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 22, 2020 12:28:26 GMT -7
Next up: Crack of the Eighties. I got nuthin. Sounds familiar but I don’t know the route. Where is it?
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Post by cozisco on Mar 22, 2020 14:50:52 GMT -7
It's near Lake Tahoe. Jeff Smoot describes the FA in Hangdog Days, if that helps.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 22, 2020 15:43:36 GMT -7
That does help. 12c?
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Post by cozisco on Mar 22, 2020 20:18:24 GMT -7
That's it! Alan Watts went up there after climbing The Renegade/The Stigma to try a "next level" project, but ended up doing it in an afternoon and called it 12c. It's now considered 13a though.
Based on Smoot's account, Watts was genuinely confused why local strongmen thought it was so hard and had been such a long-standing project.
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tclack88
New Member
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Post by tclack88 on Mar 22, 2020 23:04:06 GMT -7
How about "Valhalla"
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Post by jetjackson on Mar 23, 2020 6:10:16 GMT -7
Integrity. 5.14b. New River Gorge. Doug Reed. - Complete stab in the dark. PITG is a 32, 5.14a, is correct. It was downgraded to 31 or 5.13d for a little while, before consolidating back up to 32. According to Andy Pollit, Wolfgang only Yo-yo'd it. That's why he was working for the RP ascent. Andy went as far as saying that Wolfgang only lowered to the rest point below the bird bath move, and not back to the ground, when I interviewed him, but I cannot recall whether or not I included that in the final edit. Jerry Moffat flew in and got the first redpoint ascent - which he managed to do in just a couple of days of work. Interesting. Did Andy witness this? I find it fascinating when these little details come up. You often hear old guys (in any endeavor, not just climbing) complain that the new generation is cheating, taking short cuts or otherwise corrupting the purity of the activity. In the case of free climbing, the more history I learn, the more I become convinced that (stylistic) standards have generally improved over time. Our standard of what constitutes a free ascent has pretty much never been higher (possible exception for stick clipping). Andy witnessed him working it plenty of times, but I don't believe he witnessed the successful send. I wouldn't take the information to be completely reliable. I believe it was definitely a Yo-Yo send however, and the rope was not pulled. I agree with your comment about the old guard and the improvement of style over time. I think that prior to cheap and inexcusably accessible film production, it was easier to get away with making false claims about the send and/or it's style. I met the editor once of one of our Aussie climbing magazines, and ran a comment past him that an older climber had made about an FA he had done. The editor of said magazine basically said "you can't trust any of these old guys, they're all full of shit".
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Post by jetjackson on Mar 23, 2020 6:11:21 GMT -7
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Post by erick on Mar 23, 2020 7:00:50 GMT -7
Here is one that mere mortals can climb, any know of “Godzilla” it’s sibling “City Park” is much harder and more famous.
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tclack88
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Post by tclack88 on Mar 23, 2020 8:20:12 GMT -7
Unfortunately not. hints: U.S. 1970
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Post by sbleazard on Mar 23, 2020 8:21:28 GMT -7
Pretty sure it is on Getu Arch. FA Edu Marin.
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tclack88
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Post by tclack88 on Mar 23, 2020 8:32:20 GMT -7
Pretty sure it is on Getu Arch. FA Edu Marin. You may have responded before seeing the previous comment, it's in the mainland U.S., 1970 next hint: California
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Post by MarkAnderson on Mar 23, 2020 15:29:22 GMT -7
That's it! Alan Watts went up there after climbing The Renegade/The Stigma to try a "next level" project, but ended up doing it in an afternoon and called it 12c. It's now considered 13a though. Based on Smoot's account, Watts was genuinely confused why local strongmen thought it was so hard and had been such a long-standing project. After you've done the East Face, every other crack seems pretty basic by comparison. Alan was so far ahead of everyone else (in the US) at that point, it wasn't really fair. Too bad nobody really appreciated it at the time.
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